Taste Mexico City’s Soul: A Local’s Guide to Indulging in the Capital’s Culinary Wonders

Post originally Published January 9, 2024 || Last Updated January 10, 2024

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Taste Mexico City's Soul: A Local's Guide to Indulging in the Capital's Culinary Wonders - Street Food Nirvana at Mexico City's Markets


Taste Mexico City’s Soul: A Local’s Guide to Indulging in the Capital’s Culinary Wonders

No trip to Mexico City is complete without exploring the bustling local markets, which offer a sensory overload of sights, sounds, and of course, smells. These sprawling complexes are the beating heart of the capital's street food scene, with vendors dishing up authentic regional specialties for a fraction of what you'd pay at a sit-down restaurant.

Favorites like freshly made tacos, rich mole sauces, and complex salsas take center stage. The aromas of carne asada and roasted chiles draw you in, as does the sizzle of quesadillas frying on streetside griddles. But leave room for more - you'll find stalls slinging churros, tropical fruits, and gallons of just-squeezed juices.
Dive right into the action at Central de Abasto, the largest wholesale market in the world. The sheer size is dizzying, but head straight for the prepared food stalls near the Lagunilla entrance. Load up on cemitas, Mexico's answer to the hero sandwich, for under $2. Or watch skilled taqueros assemble bite-size tacos al pastor, with thinly sliced pork spinning on rotating trompos.

For market veterans, no visit is complete without La Merced. You'll rub shoulders with locals stocking up on staples, all while snacking to your heart's content. Head to Tacos Gus for their legendary al pastor, followed by a seafood cocktail piled high with octopus and shrimp at La Valenciana. Afterwards, grab churros from Churrería El Moro, a century-old stall, and wash it all down with a cup of champurrado, a warm chocolate-based drink.
More intrepid foodies should visit Mercado San Juan in the Colonia Roma. It's smaller than the others but stocks plenty of exotic ingredients, like grasshoppers and escamoles (ant larvae). Be daring and try barbacoa de borrego (lamb barbacoa) or a blue corn quesadilla with huitlacoche (corn mushroom). Cap off your culinary quest with paletas, Mexico's answer to the popsicle, from Neveria Roxy.

What else is in this post?

  1. Taste Mexico City's Soul: A Local's Guide to Indulging in the Capital's Culinary Wonders - Street Food Nirvana at Mexico City's Markets
  2. Taste Mexico City's Soul: A Local's Guide to Indulging in the Capital's Culinary Wonders - Sampling Traditional Mole at Hole-in-the-Wall Local Spots
  3. Taste Mexico City's Soul: A Local's Guide to Indulging in the Capital's Culinary Wonders - Late Night Tacos and Mezcal at Lucha Libre Matches
  4. Taste Mexico City's Soul: A Local's Guide to Indulging in the Capital's Culinary Wonders - Indulging in High-End Mexican Cuisine at Pujol and Quintonil
  5. Taste Mexico City's Soul: A Local's Guide to Indulging in the Capital's Culinary Wonders - Learning Traditional Tortilla-Making from Local Abuelitas
  6. Taste Mexico City's Soul: A Local's Guide to Indulging in the Capital's Culinary Wonders - Experiencing Pre-Hispanic Flavors at Restaurants like Azul Histórico
  7. Taste Mexico City's Soul: A Local's Guide to Indulging in the Capital's Culinary Wonders - Discovering Oaxacan Cuisine at Mercado Roma Food Stalls
  8. Taste Mexico City's Soul: A Local's Guide to Indulging in the Capital's Culinary Wonders - Marveling at Colonia Roma's Burgeoning Coffee and Café Culture

Taste Mexico City's Soul: A Local's Guide to Indulging in the Capital's Culinary Wonders - Sampling Traditional Mole at Hole-in-the-Wall Local Spots


No discussion of Mexican cuisine is complete without mole, the iconic sauce with ancient roots that has infinite regional variations. In Mexico City, visitors can experience mole in all its complexity by seeking out hole-in-the-wall spots favored by locals. Away from the tourist traps, these understated joints showcase mole both traditional and reinvented, often made from old family recipes passed down through generations.

For an authentic experience, head to El Califa in the Roma Norte neighborhood. This casual taqueria, flanked by street vendors and hiding behind an unassuming storefront, serves up mole by the liter. Opt for their mole chichilo, a mild version made with ancho, mulato, and pasilla peppers. Its deep, rich flavors complement the tender beef in their tacos. Or try a clay bowl filled with their Thursdays-only mole poblano, an elegant mélange of over 20 ingredients. El Califa stays true to the sauce's roots while allowing creativity to shine through.
Equally beloved is Fonda Garufa in Escandón, a bright cafeteria space with Formica tables and technicolor murals. Their mole rojo, made from four types of chiles, seduces the palate with layers of smoke and subtle sweetness. Pair it with the enfrijoladas, blue corn tortillas bathed in bean sauce, for a true soul-warming dish. Don't miss their freshly made empanadas for dessert either.
The molenegro at Taqueria Los Parados is possibly the city's finest version of the dark, complex Oaxacan specialty. Slow-cooked for hours and made from over 30 ingredients, its deep chocolate tones sing against the restaurant's blue corn tlacoyos stuffed with requesón cheese. Equally remarkable is their mole coloradito, infused with peanut, sesame seeds, and morita chiles. Whether lunching on tacos or stocking up on mole to go, Los Parados provides an unmatched mole education.

Finally, no discussion of mole in Mexico City is complete without a pilgrimage to Pujol, part of the new wave of high-end Mexican cuisine. Its contemporary, elegant space belies the restaurant's deep reverence for traditional flavors. That respect for history shines through in Pujol's signature mole madrecuixe. With notes of cocoa, cinnamon, and vanilla, it encapsulates Mexico's culinary essence - ancient yet innovative. Sampling it among the frescoed walls provides a singular mole experience.

Taste Mexico City's Soul: A Local's Guide to Indulging in the Capital's Culinary Wonders - Late Night Tacos and Mezcal at Lucha Libre Matches


After the sun sets in Mexico City, the party really gets started. Locals and travelers alike flock to lucha libre matches for raucous entertainment, washed down with tacos and mezcal long into the night. These wildly popular wrestling events offer much more than just athletic spectacle - they provide a fascinating lens into Mexican culture and cuisine.

Attending a lucha libre match is a quintessential Mexico City experience. The masked wrestlers are larger-than-life characters, with elaborate costumes and acrobatic moves that dazzle audiences. Matches take place in historic arenas like Arena México, completed in 1956 and considered the "Cathedral of Lucha Libre." The crowds are rowdy and enthusiastic, constantly yelling and cheering on their favorite fighters.

While the in-ring action rivets spectators, the culinary offerings also deliver excitement. roams the stands dishing up tacos and other antojitos, or Mexican street snacks. A quick bite of a folded taco al pastor, with juicy pork and sweet pineapple, provides just the right sustenance for cheering. Quesadillas overflowing with oaxaca cheese and feisty salsa verde satisfy late-night cravings. And elotes, slathered in mayonnaise, cotija cheese, and chili powder, make for the ultimate finger food while taking in the spectacle.
Of course, what better to wash it all down than mezcal? The smoky agave spirit, produced primarily in Oaxaca, has grown tremendously in popularity both in Mexico and abroad. Sipping this ancient elixir not only complements the tacos but adds a heady buzz to the electric atmosphere. Mezcal truly brings the overall experience to life.
For the adventurous, partaking in tacos and mezcal at a lucha libre match provides an immersion into Mexican culture that few other activities can rival. Shouting yourself hoarse while cheering on masked fighters, fueled by mezcal's slow burn and tacos bursting with flavor - it's a night unlike any other. Memorable moments occur spontaneously: a particularly dazzling flying maneuver off the ropes, a surprise appearance by a legendary fighter from decades past. Each match is a party, each taco a revelation.

Taste Mexico City's Soul: A Local's Guide to Indulging in the Capital's Culinary Wonders - Indulging in High-End Mexican Cuisine at Pujol and Quintonil


Mexico City's dining scene has exploded in recent years, with innovative young chefs putting a contemporary twist on traditional ingredients and flavors. At the forefront of this New Mexican Cuisine movement are Pujol and Quintonil, whose tasting menus transport diners on a culinary journey through the diverse regions and cultures of Mexico.

Pujol, helmed by acclaimed chef Enrique Olvera, has ranked on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list since 2015, currently sitting at #12. Its polished, modern setting houses a 20-course tasting menu that evolves based on seasonal availability of ingredients. Diners may experience lesser-known ingredients like tuna jus, chamoy, and xoconostle alongside updated versions of classics like mole and tortillas. Dishes showcase varied cooking techniques from wood-fired grilling to complex moles simmered for hours. The experience sends diners on a Mexican flavor trip, with featured regions changing periodically.
Equally remarkable is Quintonil, opened in 2012 by Pujol alum Jorge Vallejo. His obsession with Mexico's biodiversity is evident in the degustation menu's focus on lesser-known edible plants and mushrooms indigenous to Mexico. Diners experience entirely new flavors and textures, like kernels of eucalyptus sprinkled atop fish or a tart sorbet made from xoconostle cactus fruit. Vallejo's unconventional presentations, like camote cooked in its own vine ashes, challenge perceptions of Mexican cuisine's boundaries.
Indulging in these restaurants provides several key benefits for adventurous diners. Experiencing these progressive new styles expands visitors' perceptions of Mexican cuisine being limited to tacos and enchiladas. Chef Olvera's resurrection of ancient ingredients and pre-Hispanic cooking styles spotlights Mexico's rich culinary history. Discovering regional specialties from Oaxaca to Yucatán opens one's eyes to the incredible diversity across Mexico. Costing roughly $200 to $300 per person, these restaurants offer an immersive culinary adventure at a fraction of similar experiences internationally.
For many diners, the rare ingredients prove the biggest draw. Commenters on forums like TripAdvisor rave about experiencing delicacies not found anywhere else, like Pujol's foie gras taco on handmade river reeds. Besides indulging their curiosity, patrons enjoy a window into Mexico's natural bounty and its vast untapped potential. Equally memorable is observing the chefs' passion and creativity in transforming these ingredients into edible art.

Taste Mexico City's Soul: A Local's Guide to Indulging in the Capital's Culinary Wonders - Learning Traditional Tortilla-Making from Local Abuelitas


No culinary experience connects visitors more intimately with Mexico City’s cultural essence than learning tortilla-making from a local abuelita, or grandmother. Kneading corn masa and cooking tortillas over a comal offers deep insight into ancestral traditions still thriving today. As abuelitas pass down recipes perfected over generations, you gain hands-on knowledge no history book can provide.
Seeking out a tortilla workshop in a private home provides the most authentic experience, though many can be found at local markets too. Either way, you’ll join groups no larger than five or six eager students. An aproned abuelita introduces herself in melodic Spanish, often barely taller than her wooden tortilla press. The lesson starts by explaining the deceptively simple ingredients - corn, water, lime, and salt. Your hostess then demonstrates pressing, flipping, and cooking the tortillas to speckled perfection.

Now you give it a try, patting the masa into little discs before pressing them firmly. They must be thin enough to cook through, but not tear apart. Your first attempts likely won’t meet the abuelita’s practiced standards. “Más delgada,” she advises patiently, demonstrating her rapid pressing and flipping motion. After a dozen tortillas or more, you develop a rhythm and produce consistently round specimens that puff perfectly on the comal. Abuelita smiles and nods her approval.
The sensory details imprint themselves deeply during the experience. The gritty tactility of corn masa between your fingers. The sizzle of raw tortillas hitting hot comal. Inhaling the toasty aroma as they cook, then marveling at their transformation. The abuelitas beam with pride watching your progress. They share stories of helping their own grandmothers as young girls, keeping ancestral culinary traditions alive.
At workshops like TodoTortillas.com, you then enjoy your handiwork by sampling freshly made tortillas with rich bean spreads and salsas. The flavors dazzle after witnessing the entire labor-intensive process firsthand. Between nibbling your creations, you chat with the abuelita about her family and cooking tips. She’s delighted to autograph the Spanish cookbook you purchase afterwards.

Taste Mexico City's Soul: A Local's Guide to Indulging in the Capital's Culinary Wonders - Experiencing Pre-Hispanic Flavors at Restaurants like Azul Histórico


Transporting diners back centuries, restaurants like Azul Histórico spotlight Mexico's ancient culinary roots with flavors untouched by European influence. By reviving cooking techniques and ingredients from the pre-Hispanic era, these eateries provide a portal into Mexico's vibrant indigenous foodways. Experiencing Aztec or Mayan cuisine offers a captivating lens into ancient civilizations.
Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita opened Azul Histórico in Mexico City's trendy Colonia Roma to highlight Mexico's centuries-old gastronomic traditions. Dining here feels akin to a living history lesson, the menu brimming with antecedents unfamiliar to most. Diners encounter ingredients ubiquitous today yet scarcely recognizable in their ancestral forms - tomatoes, only the size of grapes; chili peppers still green, rather than ripened red. Ancient grains like amaranth and chia come cleverly disguised in contemporary dishes like chia seed-crusted salmon.

Visitors relish this chance to taste Mexico's cuisine in its original incarnation. One TripAdvisor reviewer declares it a "fascinating experience," sampling pumpkins and squash native to central Mexico. Others praise savoring delicacies like crocodile wrapped in hoja santa leaves, drizzled with a sweet agave reduction reminiscent of ancient times. Trying the restaurant's various moles provides revelation into each sauce's early beginnings - the cacao prominent in mole poblano, the vibrant pumpkin seed base ofpipian rojo.
Equally eye-opening are the vintage cooking techniques still used today. Azul Histórico artfully employs cazuelas, heavy clay pots that gently diffuse heat to blend complex flavors. Cooks prepare tamales in the pre-Hispanic style, steaming them upright rather than rolled in corn husks. Ancient spices like achiote and epazote enliven familiar ingredients like chicken and turkey. Textural contrasts surprise diners too, with crunchy pepitas and corn nuts topping otherwise melt-in-your-mouth stews.
Muñoz Zurita sources many rare ingredients from small producers continuing age-old practices in the Mexican countryside. His dedication to historical accuracy even led him to establish a farm outside Mexico City cultivating over 120 heirloom crops from the Aztec and Mayan eras. This access to forgotten flavors empowers his culinary time travel.
While dishes lean traditional, the presentation incorporates contemporary plating techniques. Multi-colored moles form paintbrush swirls over mounds of steamed bok choy or wild mushrooms. Griddled squash blossoms provide pops of color alongside monochromatic stews of pumpkin seeds or inky black beans. This artful approach modernizes potentially intimidating pre-Hispanic ingredients for diners. It signals that while ancient, the flavors are entirely approachable.

Taste Mexico City's Soul: A Local's Guide to Indulging in the Capital's Culinary Wonders - Discovering Oaxacan Cuisine at Mercado Roma Food Stalls


No culinary tour of Mexico City is complete without a visit to Mercado Roma, an upscale food hall in the hip Roma neighborhood. Among the maze of eateries and stalls, you’ll find several spotlighting the complex moles and bountiful produce of Oaxaca. Sinking your teeth into a rich empanada or sipping Mezcal in tall clay copas provides a mini sojourn to this legendary southern region.
Oaxacan cuisine rightfully deserves its exalted reputation, with ancient recipes and ingredients sculpted over centuries into gastronomic art. The state abounds with products celebrated from coasts to mountains - aromatic chocolate, chiles in Technicolor hues, fiery mezcal distilled from wild agave. With over seven distinct ethnic groups, each with their own culinary perspective, Oaxaca’s diversity dazzles diners.
At Mercado Roma, Sanamex imports Oaxacan flavor to the capital. Their compact stand overflows with traditional moles like negro, amarillo, and chilhuacle, ready for sampling. You can buy a jar to recreate the magic at home or stay and let the ultra-friendly staff whip up a tasting. Their treasure trove contains over 30 types of handmade tortillas, from vibrant green squash blossom to inky black bean, ready to grace any mole.

Nearby Fonda Fina puts a playful twist on Oaxacan fare, like mole chicharrones. These crispy pork rinds coated in velvety sauce provide textural delight and rich depth of flavor. Their weekend brunch special, enfrijoladas accompanied by mezcal, provides the ultimate hangover remedy. Don't miss their tender, wood-grilled cabrito either, the regional delicacy of slow-roasted young goat.
At Mezcal Tonantzin, owner Ivan Vasquez serves over 180 varieties of small-batch mezcal straight from Oaxacan palenques. His passion for Mexico's native spirit is contagious as you sample flights of smooth reposados, herbal blancos, and smoky pechugas. Vasquez will wax poetic for hours on terroir, agave varietals, and distillation secrets. Sip mezcal while enjoying botana snacks, or complement it with mole chochoyones - dumplings in intense red-chile sauce.

Taste Mexico City's Soul: A Local's Guide to Indulging in the Capital's Culinary Wonders - Marveling at Colonia Roma's Burgeoning Coffee and Café Culture


Mexico City's Colonia Roma has emerged as the epicenter of the capital's third wave coffee movement. In recent years, specialty cafés have multiplied rapidly across the scenic neighborhood. Here, passionate baristas apply meticulous techniques to showcase high-quality beans from independent Mexican growers. The emphasis is on sustainability and craft, providing an unparalleled café experience.

For many locals and visitors, this burgeoning scene offers far more than expertly pulled espressos. It provides a lens into Mexican culture, uniting old and new. Many spots fuse traditional design elements with sleek minimalist interiors. Their menus bridge authentic Mexican ingredients like cocoa, vanilla and cinnamon with global coffee traditions. According to one TripAdvisor user, Roma's cafés are "quintessentially Mexican yet thoroughly cosmopolitan."

Among favorite haunts is Casa Virginia, occupying a turn-of-the-century mansion near Parque México. Its lush courtyard and salons channel early 20th century Mexico City, while offering specialty drinks like peppermint mochas and matcha lattes. Menu choices also underline the intersection of tradition and modernity, like their popular café de olla latte sprinkled with cinnamon. Another top draw is Delirio, wowing patrons with its stark all-black interior and baristas sporting driving gloves to tamp espresso. Locals line up for their signature Café Gengibre, mixing ginger with two bold shots of espresso. It's the perfect foil for Delirio's delicate hipster atmosphere.

Many visitors remark that Roma's cafés exude an artsy, cosmopolitan vibe on par with Europe's top cities. Their minimalist interiors, buzzing sidewalk seating and fashionable patrons make it easy to forget you're in Latin America. Yet flourishes like handmade Mexican tiles and Lord of the Flies postmodern art remind you of the setting. According to one blogger, "the cafés embody Roma's eclectic, worldly spirit."

Some spots spotlight Mexico's burgeoning specialty coffee explicitly. At Café Equis, owner Eduardo Castañeda educates patrons on each farm and plot their single-origin beans hail from. His baristas share granular details on bean variety, processing techniques and tasting notes. Customers feel connected to the end-to-end journey from crop to cup. At municipally-owned Cafetería Roma, proceeds support a Oaxaca cooperative producing amazing coffee from their remote mountain town. Sipping an exquisitely balanced cappuccino there empowers rural communities.

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