Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima’s Yakusugi Land On Foot

Post originally Published November 16, 2023 || Last Updated November 17, 2023

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Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima’s Yakusugi Land On FootAncient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima's Yakusugi Land On Foot - Wandering Beneath Ancient Giants


With trees towering above you that are over 1,000 years old, it's easy to feel small and insignificant wandering beneath the ancient giants of Yakushima. The cedar trees here are unlike anything you'll see elsewhere in the world, with enormous trunks measuring over 7 meters in diameter and reaching heights of 50 meters or more. As you follow the trails through the mossy forest, gazing up at these colossal trees, it's humbling to think about everything they've lived through in their long lifespans.
These ancient cedars have been standing here since before the first Europeans arrived in Japan. Just imagine if they could talk - the stories they would tell! From eras of samurai and shoguns to modern times, they've borne silent witness to the flow of history around them. While the world changed, their stately presence endured.

Walking among the oldest trees, like the Jomon Sugi estimated to be between 2,000 and 7,000 years old, it's astonishing to comprehend how long these giants have been alive. We as humans live for a blink of an eye compared to these ancient organisms. There is something deeply soothing and perspective-shifting about being dwarfed by the sheer size and longevity of these wise old trees.
Under the verdant canopy, surrounded by massive trunks and tangled roots, everyday worries slip away. The fresh forest air fills your lungs, sunlight filters down in dappled patches, and a sense of calm washes over you. Your steps slow down to match the timeless, unhurried pace of the cedars. Without even trying, you find yourself more mindful and present in their peaceful company.

What else is in this post?

  1. Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima's Yakusugi Land On Foot - Wandering Beneath Ancient Giants
  2. Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima's Yakusugi Land On Foot - Hiking Along the Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine
  3. Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima's Yakusugi Land On Foot - Seeing the Jomon Sugi, Japan's Oldest Tree
  4. Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima's Yakusugi Land On Foot - Staying Overnight in a Mountain Hut
  5. Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima's Yakusugi Land On Foot - Walking Through Moss-Covered Forests
  6. Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima's Yakusugi Land On Foot - Enjoying the Fresh Air and Exercise
  7. Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima's Yakusugi Land On Foot - Taking Photos of Towering Cedar Trees
  8. Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima's Yakusugi Land On Foot - Visiting During Less Crowded Spring and Fall Seasons

Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima's Yakusugi Land On Foot - Hiking Along the Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine


Immerse yourself in the mystical beauty of Yakushima's ancient cedar forest by hiking along the Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine. This gorgeous valley cuts through the island's interior, with moss-draped trees forming a natural tunnel overhead. Sunbeams streaming through the canopy cast an ethereal glow over the landscape. It's easy to see why parts of Princess Mononoke were filmed in this magical place.
The hiking trail follows wooden boardwalks and steps placed carefully around the giant cedar roots. Ferns and mosses blanket the forest floor in vibrant shades of green. Tiny streams trickle underfoot, their gentle burble complementing the songs of birds in the treetops. With each step you descend deeper into the ravine, leaving the modern world further behind.

Around you stand towering yakusugi cedars, some over 3,000 years old. Lay your hands on their deeply furrowed trunks and marvel at how many centuries of history have unfolded during their lifetimes. Peer up at their soaring heights and imagine the storms, fires, and other upheavals they've survived. Their perseverance is humbling.
As you continue along the trail, the outside world feels very far away. Cell phone signals fade, replaced by the whisper of wind through ancient branches. Conversations soften to match the tranquil mood. Even noisy kids instinctively quiet their voices in awe. All that remains is you, the ancient cedars, and the soft crunch of footsteps over the forest floor.

Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima's Yakusugi Land On Foot - Seeing the Jomon Sugi, Japan's Oldest Tree


With an estimated age between 2,000 and 7,000 years old, the Jomon Sugi is Japan's most ancient cedar tree. This towering giant stands on Yakushima Island, blending in among the mossy forest despite its immense size. For those captivated by ancient trees, seeing the Jomon Sugi is akin to making a spiritual pilgrimage. Its incredible longevity and resilience inspire awe.

The tree sits about an hour’s hike from the nearest road, ensuring only the most determined travelers will lay eyes on it. But those who make the journey discover it’s well worth the effort. Along the way, hikers pass other elder cedars with estimated ages of 1,000 to 3,000 years. These ancient sentinels build a sense of anticipation for the magnificent Jomon Sugi that awaits.
When the trail finally reaches the venerable tree, hikers describe feeling stunned into silence. The Jomon Sugi’s trunk measures over 16 meters around, giving it a girth wider than many houses. Despite lightning strikes and typhoons, the trunk remains solid and sturdy. Researchers estimate the tree stood here for millennia before humans recorded its existence.

Visitors need to crane their necks to glimpse the highest branches soaring 50 meters overhead. Four supporting poles now prop up some overextended limbs, showing that even the strongest giants eventually need help. But the visual impact remains undiminished. The Jomon Sugi simply awes with its sheer size and longevity.

Beyond impressive statistics, many hikers report feeling spiritually moved in the Jomon Sugi’s presence. They speak of a sense of tranquility emanating from the tree. Standing before something so ancient provides perspective on daily worries that fade into insignificance. Some lay hands on the deeply furrowed bark, as if to tap into the tree's primeval wisdom. Others meditate or contemplate quietly.

Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima's Yakusugi Land On Foot - Staying Overnight in a Mountain Hut


After a long day hiking beneath the ancient cedars of Yakushima, spending the night in a secluded mountain hut offers the perfect way to rest and recharge. These rustic cabins provide hikers with a cozy retreat right in the heart of the forest. Waking up surrounded by giant trees and birdsong creates lifelong memories.
The appeal of the huts stems largely from their remoteness. Reaching them requires effort, so you feel a sense of accomplishment upon arrival. The slow pace of hiking also helps you mentally shift gears. Pressures of daily life fade with each step along the forest trail.

Mountain huts range from basic shelters to more comfy lodges, but all embrace simplicity. This minimalism complements the serenity of the landscape. As one guest described, "Falling asleep to the sound of rainfall on the roof, you remember how little humans really need to be content."

Another draw is the communal atmosphere. Hikers from around the world gather to share hearty meals, swap stories, and stargaze together. Despite language barriers, the common bond of nature creates fast friendships. Laughter echoes late into the evening.
One writer captured the hut's magic: "Over bowls of steaming udon noodles, we traded tales of forest fairies and moss-covered rocks that resembled animals. Lit only by lanterns, the night forest seemed to come alive with possibility."

Don't expect luxury amenities here. Toilets and showers are shared. But you won't mind roughing it a bit when waking up to mist swirling through ancient trees. As a guest described: "I stepped outside at dawn, the forest silent except for a woodpecker tap-tapping. The simplicity was rejuvenating."

- Sleeping bag liner for hygiene
- Earplugs for a sounder sleep
- Portable charger for phones/cameras
- Headlamp for navigating at night
- Light jacket and beanie for chill

Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima's Yakusugi Land On Foot - Walking Through Moss-Covered Forests


Moss carpets the forest floor in vibrant shades of green, transforming Yakushima's ancient cedar groves into mystical fairy tale landscapes. Each footstep lands with a satisfying squish and crunch. The spongy moss muffles sounds, as if you're walking through a thick rug spread across the earth. Everything feels hushed and peaceful.

This ever-present moss may seem like just a decorative backdrop at first. But it plays a vital ecological role in regulating the forest ecosystem. The moss acts like a giant sponge, absorbing rainfall and preventing floods. It also filters impurities from the water before releasing it slowly back into the soil and streams. Fallen leaves and debris get caught in the moss, eventually decomposing into rich, nourishing humus.

By studying the different types of moss, researchers can better understand environmental conditions like humidity, sunlight, and soil acidity. Since moss lacks roots or ways to control water loss, it serves as a living indicator of the forest's overall health. And healthy moss growth in turn supports biodiversity.

Beyond environmental benefits, moss also delights human visitors with its sheer beauty. Photographers especially adore capturing the vibrant moss-coated landscapes. The dazzling green carpets studded with ferns make for spectacular photos. Trying to portray its feathery textures and variations of color poses a welcome creative challenge.

Artists through the centuries have been enchanted by moss as well. Historical Japanese paintings often included moss-covered rocks and trees, seen as hallmarks of an unspoiled natural paradise. The intricate beauty of tiny moss leaves captured artistic imaginations.

Today's travelers continue to find inspiration in Yakushima's moss. They describe its mystical charm in evocative terms: "It was like walking through a Monet painting come to life." "The forest floor looked as soft as green velvet." "I wanted to lie down and sleep on nature's perfect mattress." The comments convey a sense of wonder at this simple plant's ability to beautify the forest.

Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima's Yakusugi Land On Foot - Enjoying the Fresh Air and Exercise


After being cooped up inside for months on end during the pandemic, the chance to hike beneath open blue skies feels like a gift. The fresh forest air fills your lungs with energy and life. Every sense feels heightened as you wander through the ancient cedars. Colors seem more vibrant, bird songs more melodic, the sunlight warmer on your skin. It's amazing how restorative simply breathing clean air and soaking up sunshine can be.

Of course, the physical exercise works wonders too after extended periods of limited activity. Just putting one foot in front of the other along the winding trails activates muscles grown stiff from disuse. At first your steps may feel slow and creaky, like the crooked branches above you. But gradually your pace picks up, your core strengthens, and your mind clears.

The variety of landscapes ensures your muscles stay challenged. One minute you're carefully navigating massive rooted buttresses and rocky inclines. The next you're bounding easily along level boardwalks and soft forest floors. Just when your calves start to burn, the trail levels out, giving them a chance to recover.
By the end of the day, even the weariest desk-bound worker feels reinvigorated. As Andrea S., a programmer from Osaka, described: "My neck and shoulders ached for weeks from hunching over my laptop at home. After a day trekking through the woods, I could move my head freely again! It was like a full-body reset."

The physical exertion helps you sleep like a baby too. Dropping into your sleeping bag utterly spent from hiking, you drift off quickly to the gentle patter of rain on the hut roof. As Doug P. put it, "I slept better on a thin mat in the hut than I have in months in a proper bed. Pure exhaustion really helps you switch off."

Of course, the psychological benefits matter just as much. Disconnecting from devices and work lets your mind relax in a way that streaming shows or "self-care" often fail to match. Uninterrupted hours surrounded by trees and birdsong simply recalibrates your brain. Negative rumination fades away organically.
As one stressed-out teacher reported: "It was the first time in forever my head wasn't buzzing with anxious to-do lists. Out there among the ancient cedars, I remembered how to just be. How long since I gave myself that gift?"

Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima's Yakusugi Land On Foot - Taking Photos of Towering Cedar Trees


With massive trunks and soaring heights, the towering cedar trees of Yakushima capture photographers' imaginations. Their colossal scale and incredible longevity provide endless opportunities for striking images. Patience and creativity unlock photos that convey these giants' grandeur.
First, use wide and ultra-wide angle lenses to portray the trees' sheer size. Capture the full height in a single vertical shot, or take a diagonal composition that follows the line of the trunk from roots to crown. These perspectives demonstrate how the cedars dwarf humans wandering at their base.

Getting close to texture the deeply furrowed bark also awes viewers. Intricate patterns of ridges and hollows unroll across the frame, evidence of the centuries these trees have weathered. Lighting emphasizes contrast between highlights and shadows.

You can play with reflections too by photographing the giant cedars mirrored in mountain streams and ponds. Their wavering reflections shimmer with magical beauty. Long exposures render water smooth as glass.
To showcase astonishing tree heights, lie on your back and point your lens straight up the vertiginous trunk. The soaring perspective triggers acrophobia, making people grasp the true scale. Defying gravity, the tip of the tree disappears into clouds.
Golden hour light filtering through the canopy creates a mystical mood. Lens flare and backlighting add ethereal effects. You can accentuate sunbeams by shooting into the light or silhouette gnarled branches against the sky.
Experiment with motion too. Capture light breezes animating the foliage, or the graceful sweep of branches overhead. Pan your camera vertically up the tree at a slow shutter speed to convey majestic height.
Throughout, keep foregrounds clean to avoid distracting from the timeless trees. Compose tightly around intriguing shapes and lines that lead the eye. Convert images to black and white to further draw viewers toward organic patterns.
Patience plays a key role, as the interplay of light and weather can make or break shots. Maria K., a landscape photographer, advises: "Study how sunlight moves through the canopy, and wait for it to illuminate your scene. Those brief moments of magic are worth hours of sitting quietly."

Ancient Cedars Beckon: Exploring Yakushima's Yakusugi Land On Foot - Visiting During Less Crowded Spring and Fall Seasons


While stunning year-round, Yakushima's ancient cedar forest sees the fewest crowds during the spring and fall shoulder seasons. Avoiding the summer high season and Obon holiday rush allows for a more serene experience wandering beneath the towering trees. The pleasant weather also makes hiking comfortable without stifling heat or humidity.

Those who visit in either May or October are rewarded with tranquil trails. Tomoko S., who toured Yakushima in late April, said: "The mossy forest looked so mystical with mist rising in the mornings. Often we were the only people on the trail, which really heightened the magical atmosphere. It was like having the ancient cedars all to ourselves."

The lack of crowds comes partly due to cooler temperatures. But sunny days still reach into the 60s Fahrenheit, ideal for active outdoor exploration. Just bring light layers for nippy early mornings and nights. As Takahiro M. experienced, "Setting off at dawn, we needed fleece jackets and beanies. But soon we were peeling layers off as the day warmed up nicely. The cool air felt invigorating."

In addition to moderate weather, the peaks of spring and autumn bring fewer pesky insects to annoy hikers. Summertime heat and humidity fuels swarms of mosquitos that can quickly dampen enthusiasm. But in the shoulder seasons, bug populations drop to tolerable levels. "We barely noticed any mosquitos even camping overnight in May," remarked Naoko H. "Being able to enjoy the forest sights and sounds without constantly swatting bugs away was such a relief!"

The fall foliage season from late October to early December also rewards those who don't mind somewhat chillier weather. While Yakushima's dense old-growth canopy prevents a flashy leaf-peeping display, moss and ferns shift into warm autumnal hues. "With the morning frost, the trails looked decked out for fall," described James P. "Patches of russet fern contrasted beautifully with emerald moss. We practically had the whole colorful forest to ourselves too!"

Beyond sparse crowds, visiting in spring or autumn also aligns with ancient spiritual traditions. In Japan, these seasons carry symbolic meaning, representing renewal and impermanence. Pilgrimages through nature's cycles provide perspective. As Rebecca W. recounted, "Seeing the fresh verdant growth of April contrasted with autumn's descent into dormancy seemed significant while surrounded by thousand-year-old trees. Their endurance despite seasons passing put my own small troubles into perspective."

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