Uncover Spain’s Hidden Gem: A Guide to the Costa de Almería

Post originally Published March 21, 2024 || Last Updated March 21, 2024

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Uncover Spain's Hidden Gem: A Guide to the Costa de Almería - Hike in Spain's Only Desert at Tabernas


Escape the crowds and uncover one of Spain’s best kept secrets—the desert of Tabernas. Located in the southeastern region of Andalucía, this arid landscape feels worlds away from the popular beach resorts and lively cities typically associated with Spain. Tabernas is the country’s only official desert, surrounded by the Sierra de Los Filabres mountains. With around 300 days of sunshine per year, it offers a unique hiking experience unlike anywhere else on the Iberian Peninsula.

Trek through beautiful badlands, red rock canyons and sandy arroyos on a variety of hiking trails ranging from easy to difficult. One of the most popular is the Río Aguas loop, an easy 3.6 mile trail following a seasonal riverbed. Look for local flora and fauna, like esparto grass, tamarisk trees and birds of prey circling overhead. The striking rock formations and colors make for excellent photo ops along the way.

For stunning views of the desert, tackle the more challenging 6 mile hike up Cerro del Culo peak. Starting from the village of Tabernas, the trail winds through eroded gullies before reaching the summit at 1,706 feet. From the top, take in panoramic vistas of the parched valley floor dotted with vegetation.

Pack plenty of water, sun protection and proper footwear, as the desert environment can be unforgiving. Avoid hiking midday when temperatures peak. The best times are early morning or late afternoon. If possible, join a guided hike to learn about the unique geology and ecosystems of the region from an expert.
Reward your efforts with a meal featuring local ingredients at a restaurant in Tabernas. Specialties include cold gazpacho soup, grilled meats and heart-shaped migrants, a type of wild mushroom found in the desert. For the brave, try ovella xalada, or salted sheep meat.

An overnight stay allows time to visit the famous Fort Bravo Western theme park, where classic films like Lawrence of Arabia, The Good, the Bad and the Ugly and Indiana Jones were shot on location. Tour the movie sets by horseback or stagecoach for a taste of the Wild West.

What else is in this post?

  1. Uncover Spain's Hidden Gem: A Guide to the Costa de Almería - Hike in Spain's Only Desert at Tabernas
  2. Uncover Spain's Hidden Gem: A Guide to the Costa de Almería - Relax on the Beaches of Mojácar and Garrucha
  3. Uncover Spain's Hidden Gem: A Guide to the Costa de Almería - Wander Through the White Villages of the Alpujarra
  4. Uncover Spain's Hidden Gem: A Guide to the Costa de Almería - Taste Fresh Seafood and Local Produce
  5. Uncover Spain's Hidden Gem: A Guide to the Costa de Almería - Visit the Impressive Alcazaba Fortress
  6. Uncover Spain's Hidden Gem: A Guide to the Costa de Almería - Get Off the Beaten Path in Andalucía

Uncover Spain's Hidden Gem: A Guide to the Costa de Almería - Relax on the Beaches of Mojácar and Garrucha


After exploring the desert landscapes, hiking trails and white villages of inland Almería, head to the coastline to relax on the region’s beautiful beaches. The seaside towns of Mojácar and Garrucha offer laidback vibes, delicious seafood and plenty of spots to soak up the sun.

Mojácar is one of the most popular beach destinations in Almería. Its main beach, Playa de Mojácar, stretches over 2 miles of fine golden sand and calm, clear waters. Beach bars like La Parada del Sol dish up sizzling paellas, fresh pescado frito (fried fish), and cold beers and cocktails to enjoy with the sea views. The beach has both lively and tranquil spots. Head to the north end near the marina for a livelier scene with beach clubs pumping music day and night during peak summer months. Farther south is more relaxed with only the sound of waves lapping the shoreline.

After beaching, wander Mojácar Pueblo, a whitewashed hilltop village dating back to the 16th century Moorish times. The labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets is lined with artisan shops, cozy tapas bars, and remnants of historic Moorish architecture. Grab an ice-cream and admire the panoramic coastal views from the Mirador del Castillo lookout point.
Just south of Mojácar, Garrucha’s beaches offer a quieter alternative. Playa de Garrucha is a 3-mile long golden sand beach perfect for swimming and sunbathing. Beachfront food kiosks dish up fresh seafood like dorada a la plancha (grilled gilthead bream) and pay attention to sea views. Farther north, Playa de las Hortichuelas is smaller and more secluded, surrounded by shady pine trees.

Like Mojácar, Garrucha has a whitewashed historic quarter to explore. Walk the promenade and harbor, watch fishermen mending nets and see fish auctioned off at Lonja del Pescado, the fish market. For nightlife, locals flock to the beach bars offering live music, DJs spinning beats, and cocktails at sunset.

Uncover Spain's Hidden Gem: A Guide to the Costa de Almería - Wander Through the White Villages of the Alpujarra


The remote villages of the Alpujarra mountains offer a glimpse into a simpler way of life. Getting there means winding uphill on roads that cling to steep hillsides. Your reward is escaping the modern world among the picturesque whitewashed houses dotting the slopes. You’ll find locals still embracing traditions, from artisanal craftmaking to agricultural techniques passed down for generations.
The postcard-perfect village of Capileira makes a great home base for exploring the Alpujarra. Its narrow alleys lined with geranium-filled balconies lead to small neighborhood plazas. Grab a table at Restaurante El Tinao and taste hearty mountain fare like jamón serrano, goat cheese and hearty stews. Hikers use Capileira as a starting point to tackle routes on the flanks of Mulhacén, the tallest peak in Spain.

Continuing up from Capileira, Bubión’s claim to fame is casa Alpujarreña, the traditional Alpujarran house. Whitewashed walls and flat clay roofs blend seamlessly into the slopes. Pop into the Casa Alpujarreña museum to see one restored house up close and glimpse traditional life. Then stroll the cobbled alleys and peruse shops filled with local artisan crafts, like wrought iron, pottery and woven rugs.

Not far from Bubión is Pampaneira, the highest of the main villages. It too is built in classic Alpujarran style, with houses staggered up the mountainside. You can learn more about vernacular architecture at the Casa Mora museum. Then explore workshops where you can watch artisans handcrafting leather, pottery and wooden items. Ready to feast? Pampaneira is one of the best places to try jamón serrano and cured pork products.

For peaceful hikes surrounded by nature, head to Trevélez, known for its high-quality cured hams. Follow marked trails through pine and oak forests up to views over the steep valley. Then enjoy a well-deserved plate of jamón at Mesón La Fragua and other spots where you can sample the town’s specialty. You may just conclude Trevélez offers the best ham in all of Spain.

Uncover Spain's Hidden Gem: A Guide to the Costa de Almería - Taste Fresh Seafood and Local Produce


The Costa de Almería offers a bounty of fresh seafood and local produce unique to southeastern Spain. For food-focused travelers, it’s a口水ing culinary playground waiting to be explored. Sea-to-table dining here captures the essence of the Mediterranean through simple, high quality ingredients paired with local wines.
In coastal towns like Mojácar and Garrucha, restaurants receive daily deliveries of seafood just hours after fishermen have returned with their catch. Savor fish and shellfish at their peak of freshness. Specialties found along the coast include gambas al ajillo (shrimp sautéed in garlic), dorada a la sal (sea bream baked in a salt crust), almejas marinera (clams in white wine sauce), and fritura malagueña (assorted fried fish). Wash it down with a glass of locally produced Costalmería white wine.
Venture inland to sample Almería’s bounty of sun-ripened fruits and vegetables. Intense sunlight, sparse rainfall and mineral-rich soils bless the region with some of Spain’s most flavorful produce. Discover sea asparagus (triguero) and “red gold” cherries so sweet locals claim they must be tried to be believed.

Almería’s Tabernas Desert holds a few culinary surprises amid its parched landscape. Forage for wild mushrooms only found here, like creamy, nutty-flavored Criadillas de Tierra. Sample ovella xalada, thinly sliced salted sheep meat that takes patience to prepare properly. Sip anise-flavored Aguardiente de Ouja, a liqueur made according to a 500-year-old family recipe using desert herbs.
In the Alpujarra mountains, restaurants offer heartier mountain fare. Beans from Níjar, goat cheese from Alboloduy and cured pork from Trevélez are local specialties. Sopa alpujarreña mixes chickpeas with bacon, egg, mint and crumbs of day-old bread. Sample flavorful cuts of regional jamón serrano at shops in Trevélez, said to be the Spain’s capital of cured ham.

Uncover Spain's Hidden Gem: A Guide to the Costa de Almería - Visit the Impressive Alcazaba Fortress


Rising above Almería’s city center, the impressive Alcazaba fortress provides a glimpse into the city’s Moorish past. As the largest fortification in Andalucía, this sprawling complex warrants at least half a day to explore properly. Wander through ruins, admire panoramic views and dive into Almería’s multicultural history.
Originally built around 955 AD under Caliph Abd ar-Rahman III, the Alcazaba served as a palace fortress for Almería’s Moorish rulers. Strategically built atop a 230-foot high hill, it provided natural defenses along with 20-foot thick walls, towers and three walled enclosures. After Christian forces conquered Almería in 1489, the Alcazaba changed hands repeatedly as Catholics and Muslims battled for control. It eventually fell into disrepair by the 19th century.

Thankfully 20th century restorations returned the fortress’ former glory. From the Puerta de Purchena entrance, pass through two serpentine walled enclosures covering over 17 acres. Along the way, duck into small chambers that once housed soldiers and explore underground cisterns used to collect rainwater in the arid climate. Climb narrow stone staircases for jaw-dropping views over the city and Mediterranean Sea from lookout points.

Within the interior walled enclosure, Moorish royal gardens have been beautifully recreated. Stroll among fragrant citrus trees, myrtle hedges and fountains while envisioning opulent palace life long ago. Nearby is an excavated area revealing the medieval neighborhood that once flourished around the Alcazaba. Continuing upwards reveals more panoramic viewing terraces and the remains of Puerta del Socorro, one of the fortress’ main gates.
The highest point is home to a 12th century palace and bathhouse reserved for the Moorish rulers and their families. Intricate stucco work and horseshoe arches hint at the former grandeur. The palace grounds provide the finest Almería city views from multiple lookout points. One spot perfect for photos is the balcony of the Torre de la Vela, the watchtower affording views extending all the way to the Tabernas Desert.

While wandering the sprawling ruins, informative displays shed light on the various cultures shaping Almería over the centuries. Explanations of architectural details, everyday objects and artistic motifs showcase the diverse influences, from Roman to Berber, Arab to Christian. Kids will enjoy the recreated scenes with life-size figures depicting day-to-day life through the ages.

Uncover Spain's Hidden Gem: A Guide to the Costa de Almería - Get Off the Beaten Path in Andalucía


We all dream of that perfect Spanish getaway, sipping sangria on a sandy beach while a Flamenco guitarist serenades the sinking sun. But scratch beyond the surface, and you’ll find Andalucía has so much more. Venture inland off the tourist trail, and a treasure trove of cultural wonders, culinary delights and natural beauty awaits.

Skip the crowds of Seville and make for charming Carmona instead. Wander quiet cobblestone streets through an impeccably preserved medieval quarter dating back to Roman times. Climb the hilltop for sweeping views from an ancient fortified gate. Savor the likes of oxtail stew and spinach with chickpeas paired with local Pedro Ximénez sherry. Nearby ancient tombs cut into the hillsides reveal a fascinating window into the distant past.
Further east, immerse yourself in Andalucía’s Moorish legacy in Jaén province'sunique triangle of UNESCO World Heritage sites. The monumental palace fortress of Alhambra de Granada draws hordes, but opt instead for its sisters. At the Alcazaba fortress of Guadix, lose yourself within the partially excavated Moorish neighborhood. In Baza, underground silos cut into the hillside comprise the mysterious Granada de los Doce Linajes.

Nature beckons in unsung pockets like Los Alcornocales Natural Park near Gibraltar. Follow quiet paths under shady cork oak trees draped in lush ferns and lichens. Keep an eye out for rare species like the colorful Azure-winged Magpie among the oak meadows. Nearby hilltop Vejer de la Frontera charms with a labyrinth of pristine white houses.

Don’t limit yourself to the Mediterranean. Head inland to the underrated Tabernas Desert, Europe’s only true desert landscape. Trek through canyons and badlands that provided the backdrop for classic Westerns. Scale Cerro del Culo peak for sublime desert panoramas and a lesson in hardy high-altitude flora.

In Las Alpujarras, trade crowded Granada for scenic mountain villages where time slows to a crawl. Link the villages of Capileira, Bubión and Pampaneira on foot under the ever-watchful gaze of the Sierra Nevada. Sample local ham in Trevélez, artisan goods in Pórtugos, and escape modern-day stresses in a peaceful landscape far removed.
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