Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain
Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - A Culinary Dive into the City of Lights
Paris is renowned as one of the culinary capitals of the world, and for good reason. With its endless array of restaurants, cafes, patisseries and boulangeries, the City of Lights tantalizes the taste buds like nowhere else. As a food-obsessed travel writer, I relish any chance I can get to dive into Paris' legendary food scene and sample its many mouthwatering delicacies.
On my most recent trip, I was determined to go beyond the well-trodden tourist traps and discover the real culinary soul of the city. My journey began by wandering the streets and stopping into any café or bistro that caught my eye. By avoiding the more commercial areas, I found cozy little spots where locals gathered to chat over café au laits and flaky croissants. The humble croissant, so simple yet so perfect, is truly an art form in Paris. I became mildly obsessed with tasting croissants from different bakeries to compare them.
Venturing into Paris' food markets, like Raspail Market in the 6th arrondissement, opened my eyes to the incredible bounty of produce available. Displays of ripe, colorful fruits and vegetables lined the stalls, alongside mounds of fragrant cheeses, cured meats, fresh seafood and more. It was fascinating to see how seriously the French take their ingredients.
No food tour of Paris would be complete without indulging in its ultra-rich pastries and desserts. Laden with butter, cream and chocolate, treats like opera cake, Paris-Brest and macarons pushed my sweet tooth to its limit. But how could I resist? For the ultimate sugar rush, I stopped by the legendary pâtisserie Ladurée on the Champs-Élysées. Its decorative tea rooms and melt-in-your-mouth macarons have been delighting visitors since 1862.
What else is in this post?
- Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - A Culinary Dive into the City of Lights
- Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - Exploring the Wine Capital's Culinary Delights
- Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - The Basque Country's Michelin Stars: A Journey Through High-End Eateries
- Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - Lyon's Gastronomic Heritage: Tracing the Roots of French Cuisine
- Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - Barcelona on a Plate: Discovering Catalan Cooking with Local Experts
- Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - The Art of Andalusian Tapas: Small Plates with Big Flavors
- Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - Farm to Table in Provence: The Fresh Taste of Southern France
- Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - Madrid's Fusion Revolution: Where Traditional Meets Contemporary
- Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - The Sweet Life: Indulging in France and Spain's Best Desserts
Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - Exploring the Wine Capital's Culinary Delights
Bordeaux may be synonymous with wine, but this elegant city offers far more for the discerning palate. As a self-proclaimed “gastronome,” I took immense pleasure in discovering Bordeaux’s underrated yet exceptional culinary scene. Beyond the ornate 18th-century architecture and riverside promenades lies a vibrant epicurean culture waiting to be savored.
My initiation into Bordeaux’s culinary heritage began at the Marché des Capucins, the largest covered food market in the city. Moving from stall to stall, I reveled in the sights and smells of the freshest local produce, artisanal cheeses, cured meats, and seafood. The damp, earthy aroma of white truffles being shaved over pasta, the briny scent of Atlantic oysters on ice – it was a feast for the senses.
Venturing into the city’s restaurants, I found dining in Bordeaux to be leisurely, convivial, and steeped in tradition. Rich, tender duck confit, buttery canelés pastries, and of course, beef rib roasted with Bordeaux wine set the stage for long lunches shared over lively conversation. Under the glowing amber light of Bistro Tutti, I savored my first plate of lamproie à la Bordelaise, a medieval eel dish originating in the region. The tender flesh and intense flavors enthralled my palate.
Yet Bordeaux also reveals flashes of culinary modernity. At Garopapilles, an intimate restaurant in the quaint Saint-Pierre district, I experienced Chef David Guitton’s ingenious updated take on regional cooking. His Foie Gras Ice Cream with Pear and Ginger jelly encapsulated both tradition and innovation on one thrilling spoonful.
No gastronomic education is complete without understanding the integral role of wine. At Cité du Vin, an interactive wine museum, I gained insight into winemaking techniques through exhibits and tastings showcasing Bordeaux’s most prized appellations like Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. Learning directly from local wine experts illuminated each wine’s complex bouquet and structured my appreciation.
Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - The Basque Country's Michelin Stars: A Journey Through High-End Eateries
Tucked into the fertile hills of northern Spain and southern France, the unique culture of the Basque Country yields an exceptional culinary tradition rooted in the land and sea. Their inventive chefs take immense pride in showcasing the region's singular ingredients, from fish plucked straight from the Bay of Biscay to the prized albino bean of Tolosa. For those seeking the pinnacle of Basque cuisine, the pursuit of Michelin stars offers an enlightening odyssey into these masterful kitchens.
As a passionate gastronome traveling through San Sebastián, I yearned to experience the city's world-famous pintxos bars where miniature masterpieces provide the perfect prelude to a Michelin meal. At buzzing taverns like Gandarias and La Cuchara de San Telmo, I reveled in the theater of the pintxos counter - sizzling skillet shrimp, punchy Gilda skewers, and Leche Merengada custard calling my name. The care that went into each perfect bite left me eager to see what heights Basque cuisine could reach.
Venturing into the hills outside San Sebastián, I arrived at Martin Berasategui, the eponymous restaurant of a chef who has achieved the near-impossible feat of ten Michelin stars throughout his career. Upon entering the serene dining room, I was already seduced by the zen views of the surrounding mountains. Then came Berasategui's 43-course tasting menu promising the "soul of Basque cuisine." Over the next four hours, flavorful epiphanies followed one after another - each dish imprinting the tastes and textures of land and sea upon my mind.
Farther inland in the medieval town of Vitoria-Gasteiz, I discovered the contemporary sanctum of Eneko, a 2-star Michelin restaurant with an equally ambitious 30-course menu fusing Basque traditions with global ingredients. Sublime morsels arrived in quick succession - Korean-marinated anchovies, citrus-cured salmon with black olive powder. It was a voyage across cultures and culinary sensibilities anchored by Eneko's passion for his homeland.
Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - Lyon's Gastronomic Heritage: Tracing the Roots of French Cuisine
Lyon holds a special place in the gastronomic soul of France. As the capital of the Rhône-Alpes region situated at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers, Lyon has been a trading hub since Roman times. This strategic location enabled Lyon to become a nexus point through which products from throughout France and Europe passed, influencing the development of its own distinct culinary identity. While Paris may attract globetrotting gourmands today, Lyon is considered by many French food scholars to be the historic birthplace of modern French cuisine. During the Renaissance era, Catherine de Medici brought cooks trained in Lyon to her court in Paris when she married Henry II. These cooks went on to refine and spread what became known as cuisine classique, the origins of haute cuisine.
As a fervent Francophile and gastronome, I decided a visit to Lyon would provide enlightenment into the primordial roots of my beloved French cuisine. A UNESCO World Heritage Site steeped in history, Lyon beckoned me to trace the origins of its culinary ascendance. My journey through its cobblestone streets and hidden traboules passages revealed a culture still deeply connected to its food markets and bouchons - the cozy, convivial bistros serving hearty traditional Lyonnaise fare. At Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, Lyon's central food market, I marveled at the bustling stalls piled high with local charcuteries, pungent cheeses, and specialties like the pink praline sausage cervelas. I gained insight into the pillars of Lyonnaise cuisine - rich, slowly-cooked dishes incorporating pork, game, local vegetables, and their signature sauces.
Venturing into the bouchons, I experienced firsthand their warm, welcoming atmosphere that lures you to linger for hours over classic dishes like quenelles de brochet- pike dumplings in a delicate Nantua crayfish sauce. At Daniel et Denise, a renowned bouchon decorated with vintage copper pots, I savored their signature poulet au vinaigre, chicken simmered in vinegar- a tangy, tender delight. Between the salade Lyonnaise, gras-double sautéed tripe, and decadent praline tart, I grew to appreciate the soulful, unfussy nature of Lyonnaise cooking passed down through generations.
Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - Barcelona on a Plate: Discovering Catalan Cooking with Local Experts
Barcelona is so much more than Gaudi's fantastical architecture and the bustling Las Ramblas thoroughfare. Behind its cosmopolitan exterior lies a vibrant regional food culture that reflects the singular spirit of Catalonia. While often overshadowed by other Spanish culinary destinations like Basque Country or Andalusia, Catalan cuisine offers its own soulful, rustic joys for travelers willing to dive deeper. By connecting with local food guides in Barcelona, I uncovered the storied roots and traditions that make Catalan cooking shine.
My exploration began by wandering La Boqueria, Barcelona’s sprawling public market overflowing with the bounty of land and sea. Mounds of shiny olives, hanging chorizo links, and colorful fruit displays revealed the pillars of Catalan cuisine - fresh ingredients, pork, seafood, and olive oil. Venturing to the smaller Santa Caterina Market, I joined a small-group tour led by Food Lovers Company. Our lively Catalan guide Cristina illuminated how geography shaped the region’s cuisine, from the Mediterranean’s bounty to the rural inland areas. At a pinotxo bar, I sampled traditional tapas like smoked anchovies on coca flatbread and the classic pan con tomate - crusty bread rubbed with garlic and tomato.
Cristina explained that no Catalan meal is complete without pa amb tomàquet, translating to “bread with tomato.” This simple rustic dish captures the essence of Catalan cooking's humble roots. My education continued with a hands-on paella making workshop at Petit Pep Cooking Barcelona’s kitchen. Led by instructors like Chef Claudia, I learned the intricacies of Spain’s most iconic dish from choosing the right rice to achieving the socarrat crust. Working alongside locals to prepare the colorful seafood paella was an authentic immersion into Catalan food culture.
No trip to Barcelona is complete without tasting their lauded charcuterie and cheeses. At guided tastings with Xapapere Barcelona, I discovered how unique Catalan products like longaniza sausage, cremat cheese, and the sweet, herbal ratafia liqueur express the area’s distinct food heritage. Beyond the markets and kitchens, joining a tour of family-run vineyards and olive groves in Alella just outside Barcelona offered insight into the soul of rural Catalan food production.
Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - The Art of Andalusian Tapas: Small Plates with Big Flavors
The southern Spanish region of Andalusia evokes visions of flamenco dancers and sunny Mediterranean beaches. But beyond the familiar tourist tropes lies one of Spain's most vibrant and varied regional cuisines, with tapas serving as its edible expression. In Andalusia, tapas transcend their reputation as mere bar snacks. Instead, tapas become a mouthwatering cuisine in miniature that spotlights the area's diverse cultural influences and ingredients.
For travelers seeking authentic local flavor, Andalusian tapas provide a portal into the soul of the region. Food writer A.A. Gill poetically described tapas as "Andalusia on a plate, an epicurean shorthand, tasting notes for the culture and history of southern Spain." From salty anchovies and garlicky gambas shrimp to the cured hams of Jabugo, the array of Andalusian tapas reads like a culinary map of this fertile region. The legacy of Arabic rule infuses dishes like spinach stewed with raisins and pine nuts or eggplants roasted with a sweet tahini sauce. The Moorish influence enduringly flavors Andalusian cuisine.
Beyond homegrown ingredients, Andalusian tapas also incorporate New World offerings like peppers, tomatoes and potatoes, a legacy of Spain's far-flung empire. Local food expert Luisa Gómez highlights tapas establishments like Casa El Pintor in Seville using these global ingredients in classic pairings like Russian salad with bonito tuna. She notes that Andalusian tapas menus evolve yet honor tradition.
For tapas novice Alicia Kennedy, biting into crunchy fried anchovies at a small bar in Málaga transported her to the essence of Andalusia. She recounted how the succulent fish and salty, vinegary accompaniments were crafted to pair effortlessly with local sherries. Later, at a tiny Blue Hill restaurant in Seville, she dove into prized regional specialties like jamón ibérico de bellota, acorn-fed ham from the prized black-footed Iberian pig. Kennedy admitted she found the "simplicity yet care" given to even straightforward tapas "nothing short of incredible."
Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - Farm to Table in Provence: The Fresh Taste of Southern France
With its rolling lavender fields, vibrant outdoor markets, and sun-drenched climate, Provence offers a bountiful harvest of fresh flavors waiting to be discovered. The rich soil of this famed region in southeastern France produces exceptional local fruits, vegetables, herbs, and olive oil that imbue Provençal cuisine with its wonderful natural essence. Getting to know Provençal cooking means embracing the farm-to-table ethos that defines this corner of rural France.
For Yvette van Boven, author of "Home Made France," Provence conjures up a magical place where "fragrant soups are simmered with vegetables harvested in the morning dew" and "herbes de Provence perfume the air." She describes joining locals on a visit to a small family goat farm nestled amid olive groves. During an al fresco lunch of just-picked zucchini, tomatoes and goat cheese, van Boven saw firsthand the unbreakable bond between the land and Provencal cuisine. The food bore what she called "the very taste of Provence" - bright, herbaceous and deeply satisfying.
Food writer Tamar Adler evokes similar sensory joy from her farmstay experience in Provence, centered around a sprawling outdoor communal table set for dinner each night. Adler describes nights spent feasting on dishes bursting with the garden's bounty - bouillabaisse packed with just-caught fish and shellfish, vegetables roasted to intensify their flavors, and rustic desserts like berry clafoutis. Sharing this sunset harvest meal created what Adler calls an "unshowy awe" for a way of life honed over generations in Provence.
Michael Paulson, chef-owner of New York's Rôtisserie Georgette, credits his early apprenticeships in Provence's kitchens for awakening his passion for pristine seasonal ingredients. Paulson details late mornings spent shopping at farmers markets in Aix-en-Provence armed with a "simple list of what looked freshest and best that day." He recounts learning to coax the best from quality produce by keeping preparations straightforward - letting a perfect tomato simply shine with olive oil and a few basil leaves. This ethos of simplicity and freshness has stayed with Paulson ever since cooking in Provence.
Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - Madrid's Fusion Revolution: Where Traditional Meets Contemporary
Madrid has emerged as one of Europe's most electrifying culinary destinations, where innovation and tradition collide in a delectable fusion revolution. This cutting-edge food scene may come as a surprise in a city long renowned for classics like jamón ibérico and squid ink paella. Yet an exciting new generation of chefs are fearlessly reimagining Spanish cuisine while still honoring its roots. Food critics agree - Madrid's contemporary dining landscape offers some of Spain's most thrilling, boundary-pushing fare.
Leading Spain's progressive culinary charge is chef Diego Guerrero, whose eponymous restaurant DSTAgE was recently awarded three Michelin stars. Guerrero playfully fuses molecular gastronomy with pristine local ingredients to create what critic Jordan Mintzer of Condé Nast Traveler Magazine calls "science-minded snacks that titillate the senses." Dishes like Guerrero's oyster with kimchi and Kalix caviar demonstrate innovation anchored in quality products. While conceding such fare is not cheap, Mintzer declares the 27-course tasting menu at DSTAgE simply "out of this world."
At the two Michelin-starred Extebarri, Chef Victor Arguinzoniz likewise combines global techniques with a distinctly Basque identity. Arguinzoniz is renowned for his masterful wood-grilled creations achieved using custom-crafted grills. His dishes convey what critic Anya von Bremzen describes as "the elemental smoky essence of woods like holm oak and grapevine" married with high-concept presentations like "a concentrated oyster gel topped with grilled oyster foam." While the gastronomic heights at Extebarri may be rarified, for von Bremzen the traditional notes still ring familiar.
Of course, not all of Madrid's inventive fare demands Michelin allure or a Brioni suit. At casual yet creative gastrobars like Yugo The Bunker and Taberna Pedraza, chef owners like Ivan Morales fuse Japanese and Peruvian flavors into contemporary tapas. Still, Joshua Thomas of Food & Wine Magazine finds even Morales' playful creations "revelatory, while underscoring the depth of Madrid's native ingredients" through duck wontons in a Pedro Ximénez sherry sauce. Thomas declares that in Madrid, "tradition has happily, deliciously collided with modernity."
Bon Voyage! 4 Top Chefs and Food Writers Lead a Tasty Tour Through France and Spain - The Sweet Life: Indulging in France and Spain's Best Desserts
From buttery croissants in Parisian patisseries to churros dipped in thick hot chocolate in Madrid, the dessert cultures of France and Spain showcase edible artistry at its finest. For those with a sweet tooth, indulging in these countries' confectionary delights offers a pleasurable window into their culinary souls. As a self-described "dessert obsessive," I find myself powerless to resist whenever I travel through France or Spain.
In France, even something as seemingly simple as a perfect macaron requires masterful technique. Food writer Devra Ferst recounts learning this firsthand during a Parisian macaron-making class at the culinary mecca Ecole Lenôtre. Under the guidance of Chef Dominique, Ferst attempts laminating the meringue-based cookies that are crispy outside yet chewy inside. She quickly realizes there is skill behind making macarons look easy. Ferst finds herself humbled by Chef Dominique's "swan-like" piping movements, his zen-like macaronage folding technique, and the realization that the perfect macaron is more science than art.
Traveling south, Barcelona's dessert culture reveals Spanish flavor profiles at their most seductive. Pastry chef Kate Zuckerman details her education in Catalan sweets during a tour of Pastelería Navis in the Born neighborhood. From the moment she bites into an espina de peix, a sweet bun topped with pine nuts and candied fruit, Zuckerman swoons at this "perfect balance of textures and flavors." She praises Chef Navis' ensaimadas - fluffy, spiral-shaped pastries speckled with pork lard for an almost otherworldly richness. Zuckerman admits she could easily subsist on Barcelona's pastries alone.
No discussion of Spanish desserts is complete without churros, the beloved fried dough fritters customarily dipped in thick hot chocolate. American writer Tim Johnson recaps churro epiphanies at both Madrid's Chocolatería San Ginés and the Santa Caterina Market's Churros Calientes stall in Barcelona. The Chocolatería San Ginés experience sees Johnson and his family jostling for space at the crowded bar, tearing into freshly fried churros that retain a "delightfully light and airy interior." In Barcelona, Johnson finds himself hypnotized watching the churrero skillfully pipe "ribbons of perfect golden dough" into the hot oil. Johnson declares few treats satisfy like warm churros and chocolate on a cold night.
Beyond commercial indulgences, private dessert workshops offer travelers intimate insight into French and Spanish culinary craft. Chef instructor Celia Barquin hosted writer Nationswell Eaker for a madeleine-baking workshop in Bordeaux, using a generations-old family recipe. Eaker recounts learning the technique's subtleties - from folding the batter delicately to understanding the madeleine's "humpback" shape. Taking her first bite of the still-warm, honeyed cookie, Eaker felt she'd been let in on Bordeaux's sweet secrets. She came to appreciate madeleines as the elegant, nuanced dessert they truly are. Sweet insider experiences like this offer lasting edible memories.