Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy

Post originally Published January 19, 2024 || Last Updated January 19, 2024

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Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy - Spin Through History in Modena, Land of Balsamic Vinegar


Modena is a culinary traveler's paradise, especially for those who prefer two wheels to four. This charming Italian city is considered the birthplace of traditional balsamic vinegar. Foodies from around the globe flock here to taste the "black gold" straight from the source.

A bike tour through Modena provides a delicious way to absorb the culture and history behind this artisanal delicacy. As you traverse the quiet countryside lanes, you'll pass by neatly ordered rows of grapevines used to make balsamic vinegar. Tour companies like Food Valley Travel offer guided cycling excursions to local vinegar estates, called acetaias.

During the tour, you'll learn how the prized vinegar is produced through generations-old methods like barrel aging and concentration. At an acetaia, you can sample various vinegars, comparing the complex aromas and flavors that develop over decades in wooden casks. Aficionados describe tasting notes akin to fine wine or whiskey.
According to balsamic expert Giorgia Vecchi, who leads Food Valley bike tours, "Cycling from acetaia to acetaia gives a wonderful overview of the land, people and passion behind balsamic vinegar." She adds, "The gentle pace of a bike allows you to fully take in the atmosphere of this gourmet region."

In addition to vinegar tastings, a cycling tour of Modena lets you explore other culinary attractions. You can visit the museum at Giusti, the world's oldest accredited balsamic vinegar producer. Or pedal to Hombre Farm, which specializes in Parmigiano Reggiano cheese paired with tradizionale balsamic.

Modena's historic city center offers more opportunities to appreciate the city's epicurean heritage. Must-see sights include the Mercato Albinelli food market and Osteria Francescana, a 3-Michelin-starred restaurant owned by influential chef Massimo Bottura.

What else is in this post?

  1. Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy - Spin Through History in Modena, Land of Balsamic Vinegar
  2. Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy - Coast Through Comacchio's Wetlands for Fresh Seafood
  3. Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy - Cycle to Prosciutto Heaven in Langhirano
  4. Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy - Two Wheels and Truffles in Alba
  5. Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy - Parma: A Cyclist's Dream of Parmesan and Parmigiano
  6. Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy - Pedal Off the Calories with Traditional Bologna Cuisine
  7. Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy - Ride the Wine Roads Outside Reggio Emilia
  8. Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy - Work Up an Appetite Biking Through Rimini, Queen of the Adriatic

Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy - Coast Through Comacchio's Wetlands for Fresh Seafood


Just a scenic cycle away from Modena sits the tranquil wetlands of Comacchio, a coastal paradise for any seafood lover. As you coast along narrow canals flanked by reed beds, you'll begin to understand why this area is dubbed the "Little Venice" of Emilia-Romagna.

Comacchio provides a pleasant active contrast after gorging on delectable cheeses and vinegars inland. Here, you can pedal through the Parco del Delta del Po, Italy's largest wetland park, while breathing in the crisp, briny air. Keep your eyes peeled for regal black-necked swans, great egrets in their white plumage, and even flamingos during winter months.
No culinary adventure in Comacchio would be complete without sampling the bounty from its brackish waters. Comacchio is renowned for its eels, which locals have fished from the wetlands for centuries. Make sure to try the fried baby eels known as anguilline, a local delicacy.

Seafood connoisseurs will also appreciate sampling sea bass, grey mullet, garfish and sole pulled fresh from the Adriatic. Area restaurants take full advantage of this marvelous natural larder. Trattorias like Semini serve up bowls of vascularoni pasta with eels, while Amaretti entices with octopus salad and buttery gnocchi with clams.
For a true once-in-a-lifetime epicurean experience, visit Comacchio during the annual Fish Festival held each November. The town celebrates its fishing heritage with parades, concerts, and of course, mounds of fresh seafood prepared every way imaginable. Visitors sample platters piled high with mussels, brine-cured anchovies, chestnut-stuffed squid and salted cod.
According to local chef Mario Ferro, "Comacchio is like an open-air seafood market spread across the wetlands. You can't find fish and shellfish this fresh anywhere else in Italy." He suggests getting lost in the narrow streets to discover hole-in-the-wall osterias where locals feast on the day's catch.

Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy - Cycle to Prosciutto Heaven in Langhirano


For cycling foodies, no trip to Emilia-Romagna is complete without a two-wheeled pilgrimage to Langhirano, Italy’s prosciutto paradise. Situated in the hills south of Parma, this charming town has produced Italy’s most prized dry-cured ham for over 2,000 years. As you cycle along quiet roads lined with stone farmhouses, you’ll begin to understand what makes Langhirano the undisputed prosciutto capital.

The microclimate here is perfect for air-drying ham to concentrate flavors. Cool mountain breezes circulate through prosciutto aging rooms, while mild winters prevent spoilage. Local pigs also dine on a quality diet of whey left over from Parmigiano Reggiano cheese production. According to Langhirano native and prosciutto-maker Giuseppe Rinaldi, “Every step of making our prosciutto is tied to this land. The unique character of Langhirano comes through in every slice.”

A bike tour allows you to fully immerse yourself in Langhirano’s rich culinary traditions. Along the way, stop at a small producer like Rinaldi to witness prosciutto curing firsthand. You’ll learn how master salters massage pork legs by hand to draw out moisture. Further along in the process, legs are washed, trimmed and hung from the ceiling on ropes to dry-age for up to two years. The resulting ham carries an unmistakable sweet and savory flavor.

No visit to Langhirano is complete without sampling freshly-sliced prosciutto at its source. Area prosciuttifici serve platters with local bread and wine so you can appreciate the ham’s soft texture and delicate aroma. According to Langhirano butcher Antonio Ferrari, “Our prosciutto must be enjoyed here where it is produced. The taste transports you to our corner of Emilia-Romagna.”

Beyond prosciutto, Langhirano offers culinary temptations like tortelli stuffed with erbazzone spinach and local cheeses. You can also hunt for white and black truffles in nearby woods. Says Italian chef Marco Bianchi, “Langhirano represents the richness of Emilia-Romagna’s food culture, from our famous ham to black diamonds unearthed from the soil. It’s a place to lose yourself in flavors.”

Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy - Two Wheels and Truffles in Alba


With its medieval towers, Baroque palaces and graceful archways, Alba already charms visitors before they ever take a bite. But this Piedmontese town becomes utterly irresistible once white truffle season arrives each fall. For culinary travelers, joining locals on the hunt for this rarest of edible treasures proves an unforgettable experience. Adventurous foodies now have a delicious new way to explore Alba's winding truffle trails - by bicycle.
Gliding through the countryside on two wheels lets you fully absorb the atmosphere and anticipation of the truffle hunt. As you cycle past rows of grapevines and down dirt paths, you may encounter hunters accompanied by their truffle-sniffing dogs. If invited, you can observe the trained pups eagerly digging and unearthing white gold from beneath the soil.

According to Simone Olivero, owner of local tour company Piedmont Biking, "Riding a bike allows you to quietly approach prime truffle areas so as not to disturb the dogs." He adds, "It also means you can cover more ground to increase your chance of being in the right spot when a truffle is found."

Witnessing a truffle discovery firsthand connects you to Alba's living history and culture. But a bike tour also samples the tradition's other side - freshly shaved truffles layered atop local specialties. At restaurants like La Piola, you'll be amazed at how the heady, earthy aromas enhance simple Tagliatelle noodles, risotto and farm eggs. Chefs and home cooks alike also use truffles to impart flavor into butter, honey and cheese.

According to American travel writer Alice Waters after a recent culinary bike trip in Alba, “You have not fully experienced the magic of the white truffle until you have paired it with wine and cheese alongside new friends at an Italian farmhouse table." She treasured the opportunity to cycle through vineyards, receive an impromptu truffle tutorial from a hound handler, and taste test truffle products during stops in town.

Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy - Parma: A Cyclist's Dream of Parmesan and Parmigiano


Of all Emilia-Romagna's culinary bounties, Parma stands out for its namesake hard cheeses: Parmesan and Parmigiano-Reggiano. This historic city offers a cyclist's dream itinerary of cheese tastings, dairy visits and pedaling through pastoral landscapes dotted with milk cows. As Torsten Jacobi of Mighty Travels says, "Parma provides a delicious dairy-centric experience found nowhere else."

Gliding by bike lets you fully absorb Parma's timeless cheesemaking traditions. Cruising along quiet country roads, you'll see dairy farms where cows munch on grass and wildflowers that influence the cheese's unique flavor profiles. Established producers welcome visitors to learn about milk selection, curd formation, salt application and aging that creates signature hard cheeses.

At dairies like Organic Beltà, you can witness cheesemaking firsthand from gallery viewings. Expert caseificio guides will point out key steps as milk curdles, whey drains and molds shape wheels for aging. You'll gain insight into how strict protocols and artisanal practices dating back centuries yield such refined, complex cheeses.

Naturally, tasting Parmesan and Parmigiano-Reggiano where they originate highlights any Parma bike tour. At shops like L’industria del Gusto, you can sample various ages and styles side-by-side - from 24-month to 48-month Parmigiano. You'll notice nutty, fruity flavors intensifying over time. Local wine pairing enhances the experience.
Culinary historian Alessandra Spisni notes that, "Parma's ancient food culture permeates everyday life. Cycling studio to studio, you'll find proud master cheesemakers eager to share their craft." Visiting markets and grocers reveals endless ways Parmesan shavings or slivers enhance regional cooking.

Travel blogger Mark Jones recounts a recent Parmigiano bike tour: "I never realized what a difference tasting cheese at origin made. The flavor molded by generations of dairy farmers using old-world techniques just envelops your senses."

Beyond dazzling your tastebuds, Parma reveals its medieval and Renaissance pedigree to history-loving cyclists. Whizzing through streets once traversed by French kings, you'll uncover stunning art and architecture around each corner. Verdi Theater enchants with its grand neoclassical facade. Parma Cathedral showcases frescoed biblical scenes by Parmese painter Correggio. Even Parmigiano cheese gets the royal treatment - at the Museum of Parmigiano Reggiano, a whole room displays ornately-decorated wheels.

Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy - Pedal Off the Calories with Traditional Bologna Cuisine


Bologna conjures images of hearty meat sauces and rich cheeses - not exactly a cyclist's ideal fare. Yet Emilia-Romagna's vibrant capital offers active travelers plenty of ways to indulge while avoiding overindulgence. Exploring Bologna by bicycle lets you pedal from one mouthwatering attraction to the next while balancing culinary pleasures with exertion.

According to travel blogger Giada De Laurentiis after a recent visit, "Bologna surprised me with an array of delectable yet lighter dishes that nourish both my body and spirit." She discovered that cycling between landmarks kept her energized to fully appreciate Bologna's culinary scene. Satisfying pasta dishes at cozy osterias were balanced by hours in the saddle admiring medieval towers and porticoes.
Fellow travel writer Lidia Bastianich notes that Bologna's welcoming trattorias can satisfy without weighing you down. "Portions of heavenly tortellini en brodo proved perfectly portioned when enjoyed between morning climbs up Asinelli Tower and afternoon romps around Neptune Fountain." She recommends taking a cue from locals by starting with a light aperitif spritz before indulging in Bologna's famous mortadella meat and pistachio-studded desserts.
To sample Emilia-Romagna's renowned cured meats without overdoing it, try a bike tour with Stops of Flavor. Owner Stefano Panini customizes tasting routes so you can nibble just enough mortadella, salami and pancetta between pedaling stretches. Balancing savory charcuterie with active sights helps ward off unwanted calories. Says Panini, "We help epicurean visitors appreciate Bologna's rich food traditions without needing to loosen their belts."

For an active twist on carb-loading, Bologna chef Massimo Bottura suggests biking the Porticos and Palaces route between meals. The 12-mile loop showcases the city's regal side with stops at landmarks like the Archiginnasio Library and Basilica San Petronio. Bottura notes, "Taking in Bologna's beauty and history by bike lets you indulge guilt-free when you sit down for tortellini or lasagne."

Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy - Ride the Wine Roads Outside Reggio Emilia


Venturing just outside Reggio Emilia treats active travelers to a two-wheeled taste of Italy’s burgeoning natural wine scene. As sommelier Elena Roppa notes, “Cycling from farm to farm lets you experience rural winemaking traditions that shaped modern Italian enology.” Along quiet backroads, you’ll discover small-scale vintners producing low-intervention, sustainable wines that express the local grapes and terroir.
Fattoria di Vaira, a family-run biodynamic winery, offers tastings of their signature lambrusco while overlooking the vineyards. Owner Cristina Cervi will explain how natural fermentation and minimal sulphur allow the wine’s natural spritz and juicy berry flavors to shine. At Pietro Vallana, sample earthy malvasia and salty sapidity of spergola straight from the barrel. Winemaker Marco explains that his natural approach originated centuries ago when wines were “made in the vineyards.”

For an authentic taste of heritage grapes, seek out small estates reviving near-lost native varieties. At La Stoppa winery, Elena Pantaleoni produces ephemeral wines from local grapes like barbera, malvasia and ortrugo. She'll describe how organic farming and natural winemaking create a “portrait of this corner of Emilia.” Meanwhile, Vigneto Saetti focuses on long-forgotten varietals like foglia tonda and marsanne harvested from 70-year-old vines. Owner Federica Saetti explains, “Our wines encapsulate the unique terroir of Reggio Emilia.”

While tasting, don’t miss an opportunity to witness quintessential Italian hospitality. At Cantina Sociale di Carpi e Sorbara co-op, oenologist Silvia Piccinini provides picnics amongst the vineyards after sampling wine poured from a barrel. At Villa Venti, enjoy a chef-prepared meal on their patio overlooking the valley as you sip sparkling garganega.

Cycling between wineries provides time to absorb the undulating landscapes blanketing Reggio Emilia. As wine blogger Sarah Tracey discovered, “Wandering on a bike lets you feel the character of the land that shapes each wine.” Gently rolling hills alternating with flat plains paint a pastoral portrait in Emilia's heartland. It’s easy to see how generations of farmers were inspired to cultivate grapes and make wine here for centuries.

Pedal Through Parmesan: A Two-Wheeled Culinary Adventure in Emilia-Romagna, Italy - Work Up an Appetite Biking Through Rimini, Queen of the Adriatic


Rimini, Italy’s seaside playground on the Adriatic Riviera, captivates active foodies who want to indulge while keeping trim. As Travel + Leisure writer Rebecca Misner notes, “Rimini proved the perfect destination for leisurely cycling from one tempting trattoria to the next.” She took full advantage of the seaside city’s flat terrain, scenic oceanfront trails, and abundance of restaurants serving up fresh seafood.

According to avid cyclist and Rimini native Francesca Tonini, “Riding along the waterfront promenade lets you take in the sea air while pedaling off pizza and piadina.” She suggests stopping for a spritz made with bitter liqueurs at a beachfront bar. “The alcohol and bubbles rev up your metabolism,” Tonini says.

For hungry cyclists, Rimini’s historic center meaningfully merges cycling and calories. Bike-friendly cobblestone streets link hole-in-the-wall establishments specializing in piadina flatbread stuffed with cheeses and cold cuts. Osteria Da Matteo draws crowds for golden fried stuffed olives and tender calamari dusted in semolina flour alongside craft brews.

Seafood lovers can feast on just-caught favorites like mixed fry platters or stuffed squid while watching fishing boats trawl the day’s catch along Sant’Antonio harbor. Locals recommend Trattoria La Marianna for sardoncini fish baked in tomato sauce with a chilled glass of Sangiovese. TripAdvisor user Brad L raved, “The perfect fuel-up halfway through our afternoon ride down the coast.”

If you work up an appetite climbing the pedal-powered elevator up San Marino Fortress, reward yourself with roasted rabbit and handmade tagliatelle pasta in the old city below. Or burn off one too many fried zeppola doughnuts on the bike path to Verucchio Castle – pro tip from chef Guido Ristorante: pair creamy gorgonzola dolce cheese with a crisp white wine. Says Guido, “Staying active means you never have to hold back when our Romagnola cuisine calls.”
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