Poutine and Beyond: An Epicurean's Guide to Montreal's Tantalizing Food Scene

Poutine and Beyond: An Epicurean's Guide to Montreal's Tantalizing Food Scene - Old Port's Cobblestone Culinary Corridor

No trip to Montreal is complete without a stroll along the cobblestone streets of Old Port, taking in the sights, sounds, and aromas wafting from the area's myriad of restaurants. Once the city's hub of maritime trade along the St. Lawrence River, today Old Port is a pedestrian-friendly neighborhood bustling with tourists and locals alike. Its prime waterfront location provides the ideal backdrop for lingering over a long lunch or savoring an intimate dinner as boats cruise by.

One of the top attractions is the bustling Rue Saint-Paul, aptly nicknamed "Restaurant Row" for its lengthy string of eateries. From cozy mom-and-pop establishments serving piping hot bowls of French onion soup to chic brasseries dishing up seafood towers and smoked meat poutine, it has options for every palate and budget. Be sure to stop into Olive et Gourmando for melt-in-your-mouth pastries and sandwiches or grab a table at Toqué! for its seasonal tasting menus courtesy of renowned chef Normand Laprise.

Just steps away lies Place Jacques-Cartier, a lively square that hums with street performers, art galleries and terraces. Pull up a chair at L'Orignal and pair a craft beer with their famous smoked meat sandwich, then stroll over to Europea for innovative sharing plates. Further along the waterfront, atmospheric cafés like Café Saint-Henri serve expertly brewed coffees and homemade baked goods.

Beyond the main tourist strip, Chinatown gates transport visitors to a bustling district centered around Boulevard Saint-Laurent. From the soup dumplings at Maison Kam Fung to Peking duck at Ruby Rouge, it offers a delicious diversity of Chinese fare. Meanwhile, Hotel Nelligan's rooftop lounge provides a vantage point to watch the sun set behind the cityscape.

Poutine and Beyond: An Epicurean's Guide to Montreal's Tantalizing Food Scene - Mile End's Melting Pot of Multicultural Flavors

Widely regarded as Montreal's hippest neighborhood, Mile End seamlessly blends old and new with its indie art galleries, vintage shops and eateries showcasing an array of global cuisines. Located just north of the Plateau, it emerged as an immigrant hub in the early 1900s when waves of Jews, Italians and Portuguese settled there. Traces of those communities still flavor the area today, mingling with newcomers from across the francophone world. Take a stroll along Avenue du Parc and Bernard Avenue to encounter everything from old-school delis to chic brunch spots.

One of Mile End's time-honored institutions is Wilensky's Light Lunch. A neighborhood fixture since 1932, it still has a classic counter serving Montreal-style bagels, grilled sandwiches and egg cream sodas in retro glass bottles. Nearby, dig into piping hot falafel or shakshuka at the legendary Moishe's before browsing the Jewish Museum of Montreal. The Plateau-adjacent section near Parc Lafontaine holds clusters of Portuguese and Italian eateries, like Caffè Italia with its hearty lasagnas and the always bustling Romados for its legendary rotisserie chicken.

Venture closer to Parc Laurier and savor the diverse flavors along Avenue Laurier Est. Lines often snake out the door at Lawrence, a hip new spot specializing in smoked meat sandwiches and dill pickles made the old-fashioned way. Nearby, Les Folies has perfected the decadent architecture of cream-filled profiteroles which you can enjoy on the flower-filled patio. Don't miss the Mile End location of landmark tavern Monkland Tavern, complete with cozy booths and a great craft beer selection.

Poutine and Beyond: An Epicurean's Guide to Montreal's Tantalizing Food Scene - Little Italy's Charming Cafes and Bakeries

Nestled in the shadow of the grand Saint-Laurent Boulevard lies Montreal’s charming Little Italy, where the aroma of freshly brewed espresso mingles with the tantalizing scents wafting from old-world bakeries. Here, a morning stroll transports you to Southern Europe as Montrealers greet each other over cappuccinos at marble-topped cafe counters and chat over cornetti emerging piping hot from century-old ovens.

At the center of the action is Jean-Talon Market, where Italian butchers hawk housemade charcuterie as elderly Sicilian women elbow past, chattering excitedly over the day’s freshest produce. Grab a pastry at La Vieille Europe before putting together the fixings for a picnic lunch. Nearby, Cafe Olympico buzzes as regulars dig into steaming plates of spaghetti vongole and tagliatelle Bolognese, or sip velvety cappuccinos.

Down a side alley off Mozart, olive oil boutique Olivieri stocks its own premium brand amid a dizzying selection of vinegar infusions and artisanal pasta sauces. Across the street Lo Zocalo Café emits the rich perfume of Italian roast coffee from its Probat roaster as patrons nurse their morning brews with fresh-filled cannoli.

Farther along Saint-Denis, old-timers gather beneath the TV screens at Caffe Italia for midday plates of tagliatelle al ragu and cappuccino freddos. Afterwards, stretch your legs by wandering the Italian-themed Marché Jean-Talon or admiring the Madonna statues gracing tiny front yards. Stop at Milano to pick up bread studded with sesame and golden raisins before settling in for dinner at Bottega Pizzeria, where thin-crust pies emerge from a hulking 900-degree wood-fired oven, the perfect accompaniment to a bottle of Chianti.

Poutine and Beyond: An Epicurean's Guide to Montreal's Tantalizing Food Scene - Mont Royal's Scenic Restaurants with a View

Looming over the city, Mont Royal provides a natural escape where locals flock for a breath of fresh air or a revitalizing hike. While most visitors want to admire the panoramas from the Kondiaronk Belvedere overlooking downtown or the lush Chalet du Mont Royal gardens, the area also holds some fabulous eateries to soak up the scenery over a relaxing meal.

Perched on the north slope, Beautys Luncheonette charms patrons with its retro 1950s decor and diet-sabotaging menu of bagels with lox, matzoh ball soup and egg creams. Scoring a coveted window booth rewards you with vistas extending over the reservoir and botanical gardens. Alternatively, the sunny patio at hipster haven Café Santropol offers organic sandwiches, fair-trade coffees and Instagram-worthy views towards the glittering Montreal skyline.

Further uphill, Restaurant Le Filet flaunts an airy glassed-in dining room overlooking the greenery of Parc Jeanne-Mance. Amid mid-century furnishings and artwork, it plates up locally sourced fish and meats accompanied by natural wines and craft cocktails. Nearby in Outremont, brasserie-style Foxy tempts with European flair through dishes like escargots in hazelnut butter, trout almandine and their signature foie gras burger. Its outdoor terrace surveys downtown's skyscrapers shimmering over the tree canopy.

For a splurge, head to Europea in the chic Ritz-Carlton Montreal. Seasonal tasting menus might feature cultured butter poached Nova Scotia lobster or pan-seared duck with cherries in port wine sauce. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the elegant dining room reveal a front-row vista of the Saint Lawrence River.

Alternatively, cross into Westmount for a special experience at the exclusive Montreal Bicycle Club. Its outdoor dining deck grants sweeping views towards Mont Royal's lush flanks. Under the trees, white-linen tables set an elegant stage for executive chef Riccardo Bertolino's artfully plated creations. For the full effect, arrive at sunset when the mountain glows against the dusky sky.

Beyond dining, Mont Royal also entices with buzzy rooftop bars to take in the scenery over drinks. Terrasse Place Ville Marie on the 46th floor of the eponymous skyscraper provides lofty views over historic Old Montreal, complete with cocktail lounges and summer DJ sets. A quick taxi ride north leads to stylish Hotel Monville and its Scene Bistro-Bar crowning the building. Its wraparound terrace offers fabulous outlooks extending from downtown to Mont Royal itself.

Poutine and Beyond: An Epicurean's Guide to Montreal's Tantalizing Food Scene - Plateau's Vibrant Vegan and Vegetarian Options

Perched above the Saint Lawrence River, Plateau Mont-Royal entices with its Victorian architecture, leafy parks, and vibrant arts scene. But vegans and vegetarians flock here for another reason: its flourishing selection of plant-based eateries. In a city renowned for poutine, smoked meat delis, and foie gras, the Plateau stands out for embracing animal-free cuisine.

Stroll along Avenue du Mont-Royal and Rue Saint-Denis to encounter cozy plant-based cafés, gourmet vegan bistros, and buzzy raw food havens. Stop into Lola Rosa for hearty dishes like cheeseless lasagna, pumpkin seed pesto bruschetta, and zucchini noodle pasta primavera. Nearby Café Résonance plates up Buddha bowls, chickpea burgers, and organic coffee best enjoyed on their flower-filled terrace.

Venture east near Parc Lafontaine and lines perpetually snake out the door at fabulously funky Aux Vivres. A neighborhood fixture for over 20 years, its creative menu spans dragon bowls to BLT sandwiches reinvented with coconut bacon. Pair it with their fresh-pressed juices or lavender lemonade.

Further along Boulevard Saint-Joseph, the pioneering vegetarian eatery Crudessence has been dishing up raw cuisine since 1995. Their creative salads, collard wraps, and zucchini lasagne satisfy carnivores and herbivores alike. Or stop into the nearby Plateau location of LOV for vegan versions of comfort foods like eggplant parm, shepherd's pie, and even poutine.

If you only do one thing, have brunch at L'Gros Luxe Saint-Denis. This vibrant spot transforms greasy spoon classics into droolworthy vegan fare. Fluffy pancakes, breakfast poutine loaded with veggie sausage, and McRibs made from jackfruit will leave you swooning. Add freshly squeezed juices and you may never go back to eggs and bacon.

Many local cafés also cater to plant-based diets. Grab a window seat at Cacao 70 to dig into smoothie bowls or avocado toast drizzled with their creamy nut-based "chocolate milk". Café Névé dishes up tempeh Reubens and coconut milk lattes. Or try the almond milk horchata at coffee house Fous Desserts while admiring its jungle-themed interior.

The Plateau holds the hottest vegan nightlife too, like the lively Velvet Speakeasy. Under moody red lighting, sip creative cocktails and groove to DJ beats as herbal essences infuse the air. Down the street, Rasco offers a cozy lounge to enjoy small plates with clever names like "fish" tacos and chicken-fried cauliflower.

Poutine and Beyond: An Epicurean's Guide to Montreal's Tantalizing Food Scene - Underground Foodie Scene in Griffintown

Tucked away in Griffintown, a neighborhood rising along the Lachine Canal, an underground foodie movement has taken hold in recent years. Once dominated by factories and warehouses, today Griffintown buzzes with new condo towers and adaptive reuse projects transforming industrial spaces into chic cafes and restaurants. Venture past the polished storefronts and you'll discover an edgier array of experiences catering to intrepid gastronomes.

One standout is Grumman '78, an acclaimed neo-diner launched in a former garage by two art school dropouts. Their passion project pairs retro aesthetics with playful dishes like General Tso's Cauliflower and Cheetos-crusted fish sticks. "We wanted to take diner fare but elevate it in an unexpected way," says co-owner Frank. "It's fine dining meets stoner food." Patrons at the 40-seat eatery have embraced their eccentric, affordable small plates.

Nearby in a 1920s fire station, Chef Rob Rossi of acclaimed Italian eatery Caffè Un Po' Pizzeria operates a clandestine supper club called Fire Station 101. Just 16 guests gather around a communal farm table nightly for a multi-course tasting menu. Rossi sources premium local ingredients to create elevated Italian comfort cuisine. "It's an intimate experience focused on bonding around the dinner table. Like dining in a friend's home," he explains.

Under the same roof, speakeasy-style bar Firebarns features craft cocktails and shared plates in a cozy, candlelit space. Owner Tim Walker aims to evoke the RTD (ready-to-drink) era when homemade alcohol needed discretion. "We wanted to transport people back to the roaring '20s," says Walker. Their clandestine entrance channeling a Prohibition-era blind pig sets the vibe.

Griffintown's past even inspired the new art gallery-bistro Hôtel Monville to launch an "underground" supper club, E.S.C. Housed in their basement speakeasy bar, the twice-monthly event recreates the illicit glamour of 1920s soirees. Amid jazz bands and burlesque dancers, executive chef Jean-Philippe Desjardins elevates French bistro cuisine into seven courses paired with wines and cocktails. "It's experimental gastronomy in a hidden corner of this historic neighborhood," he says.

Near the Lachine Canal, pairing creative menus with cultural experiences is Mesón. This lively Spanish tapas bar resides inside a 19th century stable. Behind an unmarked door, visitors enter a world of flamenco dancing, Latin music, and pinchos chased with sangria. "It's about good food, dancing, and the vibrant cultures of Latin America and Spain," says co-owner Victor Argueta. The festive atmosphere attracts both locals and visitors.

Poutine and Beyond: An Epicurean's Guide to Montreal's Tantalizing Food Scene - Experience Montreal-Style Bagels and Smoked Meat

No culinary experience connects more deeply with Montreal's cultural identity than the city's legendary bagels and smoked meat. While visitors flock to landmark delis like Schwartz's and Dunn's for authentic montreal-style fare, the backstory behind these iconic foods tells a rich narrative tied to the city's Jewish immigrant roots.

Back in the early 1900s, Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe brought their time-honored bagel-making tradition to Montreal. Their hand-rolled, wood-fired bagels had a sweeter, denser texture compared to New York's pillowy boiled versions. Integral to community life, neighborhood bagel bakeries served as gathering places where deals were made, workers fueled up, and families caught up over baskets of warm bagels. Though many stalwarts like Bagel St. Viateur and Fairmount Bagel still operate today, the heritage remains deeply meaningful for Montrealers. There's even an annual BagelFest celebrating this enduring tradition.

Equally iconic, Montreal smoked meat pays homage to a curing process refined by Jewish immigrants. To preserve meat before refrigeration, Quebec's brisket was cured with salt and spices, then hot-smoked for hours to tender, pink perfection. Schwartz's Deli claims to have perfected the recipe, turning spicy brisket sandwiches into an iconic local specialty.

Beyond landmark establishments, a new generation continues bringing the cuisine into the 21st century. At popular Fairmount Bagel, visitors now find inventive flavors like jalapeño cheddar and chocolate chip alongside the classic sesame bagel. Eatery Lawrence riffs on smoked meat in unexpected ways like smoked meat pie, French onion soup dip, and even status-topped doughnuts.

Food blogger David advising visitors that Fairmount Bagel is an institution, sharing that "the smell of bagels toasting and coffee brewing transports me back to my childhood." For tourists seeking authentic montreal-style bagels, he recommends arriving early as "the lineup goes all day but moves quickly."

Fellow blogger Ruchi first tried smoked meat at Schwartz's, recalling how "the rich chicken and matzo ball soup paired so perfectly with the incredibly tender and peppery meat." She suggests takeout for skip-the-line convenience. However, she says dining in provides that old-school ambiance showing "how integral these delis were as social institutions."

Poutine and Beyond: An Epicurean's Guide to Montreal's Tantalizing Food Scene - Poutine Perfection from Traditional to Gourmet

No dish symbolizes Quebec cuisine more than poutine, the quintessential comfort food combining french fries, cheese curds and gravy. From roadside diners to gourmet brasseries, chefs across Montreal pay homage to this guilty pleasure rooted in rural Quebec.

The original was textbook simple - a mess of fries drenched in flavorful beef gravy and squeaky cheese curds. Purists still flock to no-frills spots like La Banquise, open 24 hours for late-night poutine cravings. Their classic poutine delivers crispy fries and just-melting curds in perfect proportions. Expect to see hungry college students and partiers chowing down after a night out.

However, a new wave of chefs has moved beyond the basic by infusing local ingredients. At hipster hangout Frite Alors, their Danny DeVito features aged cheddar, fried chicken, sauteed mushrooms and truffle oil. Foie gras poutine at Au Pied du Cochon satisfies carnivores, while vegans can indulge at Copper Branch thanks to cheese-less versions with tempeh or tofu.

Even fine dining restaurants have embraced elevated poutine. At swanky Liverpool House, chef Danny Smiles plays with textures by topping crispy puffed pig skins with Quebec cheese curds and pork gravy. Meanwhile, chef Normand Laprise of award-winning Toque! keeps his duck fat fries traditional, ensuring every element aligns in perfect harmony.

Patrons' experiences mirror poutine's broad appeal. College student Louisa admits to 3am poutine cravings satisfied at La Banquise after late nights out. "Only in Montreal can you find cheese curds squeaking so perfectly," she shares. Sophia also equates poutine with youthful memories of rowdy diner meals following hockey games or long days skiing.

For Jordan, a software developer, gourmet poutine represents how Montreal pushes boundaries with familiar foods. His favorite is the lobster poutine at Le Richmond, featuring chunks of sweet lobster meat atop crispy fries and Mornay sauce infused with aged cheddar. "It's quintessential Quebec with an elegant twist," he says.