Kiss the Blarney Stone: Exploring the Quirky Charms of Dublin Like a Local
Kiss the Blarney Stone: Exploring the Quirky Charms of Dublin Like a Local - Follow in the Footsteps of Literary Giants on a Pub Crawl
Dublin's pubs have long served as watering holes for some of Ireland's greatest writers. Following in their footsteps on a literary pub crawl offers a unique chance to channel the spirits of Joyce, Wilde, Beckett and more while exploring their old haunts.
The Dublin Literary Pub Crawl began in 1988 and guides visitors through the streets Yeats and his contemporaries once walked. Participants make stops at four pubs over two hours, with actors portraying famous writers and reciting their works along the way.
It all begins at The Duke Pub, which dates back to 1822 and has barely changed since. The interior retains dark wood, cozy snugs and gas lamps, transporting you back in time. Here, a Joyce impersonator greets the group and primes us for the crawl ahead with a passionate recital from Ulysses.
From there, we stroll over to Davy Byrne's, a favorite of Joyce's mentioned in Ulysses. Inside, it looks much as it did when Joyce frequented it, with its original mirrors, marble tabletops and stained glass. Our Wilde impersonator delightfully recounts the writer's scandalous life over a pint in the snug where Wilde himself once sat.
Our next stop is O'Neill's Pub, establshed in 1798 and also name-checked in Ulysses. We relax by the fire as our guide impersonating Beckett shares how he translated his bleak outlook into absurdist prose and theater.
Finally, we end at the Brazen Head, the oldest pub in Ireland dating back to 1198. We raise a toast to the literary greats who preceded us before stepping back out into the night, having gained insight into the inspirations and inner lives of some of Ireland's most famous scribes.
Going from pub to pub allows you to envision Joyce scribbling at a corner table, Wilde holding court among friends, or Beckett brooding over a pint. The actors' passionate performances bring their words to life with humor and poignancy. And the unchanged interiors offer a window into the Dublin they knew.
Beyond revisiting history, these bars remain vibrant Dublin institutions. Their warm atmosphere and live music provide the perfect backdrop for reflecting on the city's rich literary heritage. The crawl format means you'll get a nice buzz going while remaining coherent enough to appreciate the experience.
Kiss the Blarney Stone: Exploring the Quirky Charms of Dublin Like a Local - Discover Dublin's Vibrant Music Scene at Iconic Venues
Walk down any street in Dublin and it won't take long to hear music pouring out of a pub. Locals love few things more than gathering for “the craic” over pints and live tunes. Beyond the ubiquitous cover bands, Dublin boasts a thriving scene of original artists across genres. Visiting iconic music venues offers a chance to experience the pulsating musical heartbeat of the city.
One essential stop is Whelan’s on bustling Wexford Street. This landmark venue opened in 1832 as a dry goods store before transitioning into a bar in the early 1900s. After becoming a noted blues bar in the ‘60s, Whelan’s began hosting live music in the ‘80s and has since earned a reputation as one of Dublin’s finest music pubs. With a capacity of only 450, Whelan’s delivers brilliant acoustics and an intimate atmosphere. The crowds jostle enthusiastically as acts barrel through high-energy sets on the small stage. Kasabian, Ed Sheeran and Hozier numbered among the now world-famous artists who honed their craft early on at Whelan’s. Regular Sunday “Singer Sundays” are the place to discover Dublin’s next rising star.
While Whelan’s stakes its claim on the indie rock scene, The Academy on quiet Middle Abbey Street reigns among fans of pop, rap, dance and big name acts. Converted from a 19th century theater into a music venue in the ‘80s, The Academy’s grandiose balconies fittingly host arena-sized sensations. Noteworthy past headliners include Nirvana, The Arctic Monkeys and Kanye West. With its tiered standing general admission pit and seating in the balcony, the 1,500-person venue allows you to get as close or distant as you wish from the performers. Spiritually channel Freddie Mercury during a Queen tribute act or unleash your inner Beyoncé during 90s vs. 2000s throwback nights.
No visit to Dublin would be complete without embracing traditional Irish music. The Cobblestone Pub off Smithfield Square stands as one of Dublin’s best sessions houses. Dating to the 18th century, it remains untouched by time with bare stone walls, low beamed ceilings and candlelit tables. Each night, musicians casually wander in with fiddles, whistles, flutes and bodhráns to join the sessions that spontaneously erupt. These intimate traditional Irish music gatherings represent generations-old cultural treasures. The lively, communal feel as strangers bond through song represents a quintessential Irish experience.
Kiss the Blarney Stone: Exploring the Quirky Charms of Dublin Like a Local - Get Your Fill of Fish and Chips at Leo Burdock's
Tucked away on Werburgh Street, just around the corner from bustling Christchurch Cathedral, lies what many dub the finest fish and chips in Dublin: Leo Burdock’s. This unassuming takeaway shop has been serving up piping hot, expertly fried seafood since 1913. A trip to Dublin without stopping by this institution simply wouldn’t feel complete.
As you approach Leo Burdock’s, the smell of fish frying in batter draws you in. Inside the tiny space, a flurry of activity unfolds behind the counter as staff dip fillets in batter before lowering them into vats of boiling oil. Lines move swiftly as customers place orders for fish, sausages, pies and of course, Leo’s legendary chips. You can dine at one of the few stools indoors or get your meal to go. Just be sure to ask for extra napkins - things tend to get messy.
While Leo Burdock’s menu offers a range of fried delights, most opt for their signature fish and chips. You have your choice between cod, haddock, plaice or ray; portions are generous so feel free to sample multiple varieties. The fish arrives steaming hot, with an audibly crisp, golden batter that crackles temptingly as you bite in. Beneath lies moist, tender fish that flakes apart deliciously. Leo’s gets their fish fresh daily, resulting in always flawless flavor and texture. Their chips are equally addictive: thick cut, with skin-on for added crunch and just the right amount of salt.
But it’s not just the food that makes Leo Burdock’s a can’t miss Dublin experience; it’s the character of the place. A plaque by the door commemorates their century of frying fish for locals and tourists alike. The staff carry themselves with good-humored nonchalance even during rushes. Diners perch where they can, sharing tables and swapping recommendations on sauces. While decidedly no-frills, Leo Burdock’s embodies the charm and hospitality Ireland is famed for.
Prices remain surprisingly reasonable given the heaping portions and cooking expertise. This keeps Leo Burdock’s accessible to all. Office workers stop by on breaks seeking a quick, cheap bite. Night owls soak up whiskey’s bite with some post-pub nosh. Families make Leo’s a weekly tradition, passing cravings for their fish and chips through generations. Wherever you’re from and whatever you’re craving, Leo’s promises to satisfy.
Kiss the Blarney Stone: Exploring the Quirky Charms of Dublin Like a Local - See History Come to Life at Kilmainham Gaol
Step inside the cold, bare walls of Kilmainham Gaol and you’ll find far more than just an empty prison. Through an immersive visit, Ireland’s troubled and complex history comes to life within these grounds where rebels were jailed and leaders executed.
A tour of Kilmainham Gaol transports you back to a time when rebellions simmered as Ireland struggled under British rule. The Gaol dates to 1796 when rapid urbanization led authorities to replace the overcrowded old jail with this new prison facility intended to intimidate dissidents. In 1803, famous Irish nationalist Robert Emmet was imprisoned here before his execution, which proved a spark igniting public dissatisfaction with English governance.
Over the next century, Kilmainham Gaol incarcerated and bore witness to the death sentences of many Irish republican revolutionaries. Among the most impactful was the Easter Rising. In 1916 Irish rebels staged an unsuccessful six-day occupation of downtown Dublin, hoping to free Ireland from Britain’s grasp. After surrendering, the leaders found themselves jailed at Kilmainham. Within weeks, fourteen were executed by firing squad in the stone breaker’s yard. Today, you can visit the gloomy cells where they spent their final days and stand upon the spots where they met their fate. Plaques honor their sacrifice, which revitalized the Irish independence movement despite its initial failure.
During a guided tour, you’ll also view relics like handwritten letters penned by those awaiting execution, and the wooden cross laid upon the Irish Republic flag before one prisoner faced the firing squad. These stark, sobering artifacts underscore how the fight for freedom exacted a terrible human toll. The empty corridors, spartan cells and exercise yards devoid of life provide an ideal backdrop for contemplating incarceration’s grim realities.
Kiss the Blarney Stone: Exploring the Quirky Charms of Dublin Like a Local - Wander Through Temple Bar's Colorful Streets
With its vibrant storefronts, live music pouring from pubs, and general air of Bohemianism, Temple Bar stands as the lively heart of Dublin. Walking its colorful cobblestone streets offers a uniquely Irish experience where old and new fuse into an intoxicating energy that beautifully encapsulates the city’s character.
Temple Bar’s storied history traces back to the 12th century when the Knights Templar built their Irish headquarters there. Over time, the neighborhood evolved into a major trading hub centered around Temple Bar itself – the vital artery connecting Dublin to the sea. By the 20th century, however, the area had devolved into a derelict slum. That changed in 1991 when Temple Bar underwent extensive renovations, kickstarting its transformation into Dublin’s bustling cultural quarter. Now home to hip galleries, shops, restaurants and drinking holes, the neighborhood teems with creative spirit and youthful vigor.
That spirit expresses itself most vibrantly in Temple Bar’s architecture. While structures like the 17th century Temple Bar Pub and 18th century buildings lining Fishamble Street reflect the area’s heritage, it’s the modern façades that dazzle. Splashes of color enliven every corner, from a sapphire blue bookstore to a cherry red sandwich shop with flamingo murals. Street art and quirky sculptures further enhance Temple Bar’s artsy character. This constantly evolving landscape provides endless visual stimulation during sunny afternoon wanders.
Adding to the technicolor scenery are sprawling flower boxes adorning second story windows, overflowing with geraniums, petunias and snapdragons. Temple Bar feels constantly in bloom, its floral accents amplifying the neighborhood’s cheer. Locals sit chatting on stoops beside bright window boxes, soaking up the vibrant surroundings. The area’s creative spirit also shines through in the intriguing independent boutiques lining the narrow lanes. Funky fashion, one-of-a-kind jewelry, galleries promoting promising new artists, and other unique enterprises stand ready to capture your curiosity.
Kiss the Blarney Stone: Exploring the Quirky Charms of Dublin Like a Local - Take a Dip in the Fountain at St. Stephen's Green
Among Dublin's leafy parks, none exude the carefree charm of St. Stephen's Green. Sunlight dapples the grass as locals recline, reading or picnicking. A refreshing dip at the park's fountain cools you on warm days while offering playful, memorable mischief.
St. Stephen's Green began as a private park for wealthy residents in 1664. Thankfully, its fortunes changed in 1877 when Sir Arthur Guinness pushed for it to become a public park - now it's a sanctuary nestled amid the city bustle.
At the park's center springs the arresting sight of an ornate fountain, carved from a single piece of granite. Four bronze nymphs perch atop its base, pouring water over trumpeting dolphins.
On scorching afternoons, children gleefully scamper through the fountain's cool spray as their parents look on. I'll admit to taking a few plunges myself during college visits, shorts and all. The water never exceeds ankle depth, ensuring you won't fully soak through if you decide to wade in.
Fortunately, the park staff tolerate the fountain's misuse with good humor. "Ah, let the wee ones have their fun! No harm done," I once heard a groundskeeper chuckle as two soaked, shrieking children scurried out.
I'll caution that mid-day sun makes the shallow water deceptively warm at surface level. But rest assured, dip your toes deeper and you'll encounter bracing cold rush up your calves!
Others bring swimwear to forestall getting drenched when plunged into the fountain's chilly depths. I spied two university students casually lounging up to their necks, bikini-clad as if it were a pool.
Just beware splashing too exuberantly – you might catch a cranky glare from folks at the perimeter too dampened for their liking. And do heed the rare scolding from park staff if things escalate into full-blown roughhousing.
For a comical spectacle, coincide your fountain frolic with 1pm on Sundays when the park fills for band performances. Their tunes prove quite accompaniment to the shrieks and giggles of you and fellow revelers pretending the fountain's a swimming hole for just a moment.
Kiss the Blarney Stone: Exploring the Quirky Charms of Dublin Like a Local - Indulge in Afternoon Tea at The Shelbourne Hotel
Among Dublin's grand historic hotels, the Shelbourne stands in a league of its own. Afternoon tea in its stately lounge offers a taste of Irish hospitality at its finest. This ritual hearkens back to the hotel's 19th century heyday when the aristocracy socialized within its genteel confines. Today, you need not be a nobleman to indulge in the refined pleasures of tea at the Shelbourne.
I still remember my first proper afternoon tea experience there, battling jet lag after an overnight flight. The graceful setting instantly set my mind at ease. Ornate chandeliers cast a soothing glow across the lounge's marble columns and luxuriant carpet. Outside the towering windows, St. Stephen's Green provides a verdant backdrop. My teapot and tiered tray of scones, sandwiches and desserts arrived, their alluring aromas coaxing me fully awake.
The tea selection proved overwhelming in its diversity - Darjeeling, Earl Grey, chamomile and more. I discovered my new favorite, Lady Gray, scented with bergamot and lavender. The tea expert graciously refilled my pot until I had sampled to my heart's content.
Meanwhile, I gradually made my way through the three-tiered stand laden with delicacies. The sandwiches tempted with an assortment of fillings like smoked salmon, egg salad and cucumber. Warm, freshly baked raisin scones beckoned, with clotted cream and preserves at the ready. An array of pastries and miniature cakes satisfied my sweet tooth.
These weren't just any scones - their fluffy perfection could only result from generations of refinement. And the sandwiches' dainty ribbon-thin cucumber slices bespoke a precision rarely found stateside. Clearly no corners are cut preparing this spread.
Fellow travelers reclined in armchairs, speaking softly so as not to disturb the peaceful atmosphere. Some perused newspapers, while couples shared quiet moments over their tea service. Despite my solitude, something about the Shelbourne's genteel vibe made me feel included in this scene.
Don't let the Shelbourne's upscale ambiance intimidate you. While most guests dress in business attire or stylish casual wear, you need not fret over a tea cozy and sundress. What matters is mindfully savoring this ritual. I'd suggest leaving electronic devices behind to avoid distraction. Instead, let your gaze wander across the lounge's period details as you nibble delicacies between soothing sips of tea.
Kiss the Blarney Stone: Exploring the Quirky Charms of Dublin Like a Local - Walk Off the Guinness at Phoenix Park
After one too many pints at Dublin's pubs, nothing cures a buzz better than a reviving constitutional through the fresh air of Phoenix Park. Europe's largest walled city park, Phoenix Park boasts over 1,750 acres of woodlands, gardens and open grasslands begging to be explored. Tree-lined walking trails weave through this expansive green space, offering the perfect opportunity to stretch your legs, nurse a hangover, and relish natural scenery at the edge of the city.
I'll admit after a weekend pub-crawl left me fuzzy-headed, Phoenix Park proved the ideal panacea. As I stumbled blearily from a cab at the Park's entrance, the driver shouted encouragement, "Now walk it off, laddie!" Truer words were never spoken. The park's long trails and clean oxygen worked wonders clearing my mind.
As I ambled along, browsing deer grazing in the distance, I understood why Dubliners have treasured Phoenix Park for centuries. Since 1662, Phoenix Park has remained a beloved spot for promenading and taking in fresh air. Every winding pathway reveals new vistas and pleasures. Expansive flower gardens dazzle with color and fragrance. Memorials honoring fallen Irish heroes offer quiet spots for reflection. For those craving activity, tree-lined cycle paths tempt bicyclists, while football pitches host casual weekend matches. Or simply claim a grassy knoll to people-watch and gaze up at the clouds drifting above.
While meandering about that morning, I discovered the Victorian Tea Kiosk tucked within the park's center - an idyllic refuge for the hungover. Its terrace overlooks duck ponds encircled by flower beds in full bloom. The tea selection proved fortifying, particularly the Irish breakfast blend. Hearty sandwiches and biscuits replenished my strength after all that walking. By the time I left the Tea Kiosk to resume my stroll, my mind felt refreshed and body reinvigorated.
Since that day, I've made ambling "lap after lap" through Phoenix Park's leafy byways a habitual Sunday pastime while in Dublin. The Victorian Tea Kiosk terrace offers a perfect midway stop to sip tea and nibble scones fueling me onward. Lap after lap, thoughts flow freely, creativity blossoms, making my mind feel limber as my legs.