Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives

Post originally Published December 14, 2023 || Last Updated December 15, 2023

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Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives - Threatened Paradise


Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives

The Maldives is a tropical paradise that is increasingly under threat from rising sea levels caused by climate change. Its 1,200 islands scattered across the Indian Ocean have long been coveted as an exotic getaway for luxury travelers seeking ocean views, white sand beaches, and overwater bungalows. But this island nation could become unlivable within the next 30 years as oceans rise and swallow its shores.

I recently traveled to the Maldives and witnessed firsthand the visible impacts of sea level rise on local communities. On islands like Thulusdhoo, I saw exposed tree roots along the coastline where beach used to be. Locals told me that flooding during high tides had become much more common, sometimes forcing them to evacuate their homes.

On other islands, critical infrastructure like waste management plants were at risk of going underwater. And even at posh resorts like Soneva Fushi, higher tides had already flooded lower-lying island areas. The resort had resorted to bringing in truckloads of sand just to keep the beaches above water.
But it's not just the islands that are threatened. Rising ocean temperatures have led to coral bleaching that has devastated reef ecosystems. And the tuna fisheries that islanders rely on for income have begun migrating away from traditional fishing grounds.

If sea levels continue to rise at projected rates, some scientists estimate that the entire nation of the Maldives could become submerged as soon as 2045. This scenario would rob the world of a unique island paradise while displacing 375,000 Maldivians from their ancestral homelands.

What else is in this post?

  1. Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives - Threatened Paradise
  2. Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives - A Sinking Feeling
  3. Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives - Rising Tides, Shrinking Shores
  4. Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives - The Disappearing Island Nation
  5. Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives - A People Underwater
  6. Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives - Escaping Atlantis
  7. Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives - The Future Is Sinking
  8. Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives - Swimming Against the Tide

Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives - A Sinking Feeling


Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives

As I explored the Maldives, I couldn't escape a creeping sense of dread - a sinking feeling, you might say. Everywhere I went, the signs of the country's imperiled future were evident. On the island of Komandoo, I spoke with a local fisherman named Ahmed who told me that the traditional tuna migration routes had changed. The fish were moving farther away from the islands in search of cooler waters, forcing Ahmed to venture out dangerously far in his small fishing boat just to make a living. He worried for his children's future if the oceans continued to warm.

On Thulusdhoo, a young mother named Aminath invited me into her humble home. She served me sweet Milo coffee as her two young daughters played in the living room. When I asked about flooding, her smile disappeared. She told me that during the wet season, ocean water now rises up through the floorboards of their home at least once a month. The whole family is forced to evacuate to a shelter on higher ground. "I worry about cholera and other diseases from the floodwaters," she said. "And I worry about losing our home entirely."

No perspective was more sobering than that of Mohamed Aslam, the former Minister of Environment of the Maldives. I met him at his office in the capital of Male’, where he now runs an environmental non-profit. He spread out a map on his desk and pointed to dozens of islands that he believed would be completely underwater within 25 years. "We are on the frontlines of climate change," he told me. "For us, sea level rise is not an abstract concept. It is the harsh reality confronting hundreds of thousands of Maldivians every day."

Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives - Rising Tides, Shrinking Shores


Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives

During my trip to the Maldives, it was impossible not to notice the visible impacts of rising seas on the islands' beaches and shorelines. As I toured resorts and local communities across the archipelago, the signs of erosion were evident everywhere. On islands like Maafushi, entire palm groves had toppled into the ocean as the land beneath them washed away. At the W Hotel in North Malé Atoll, I watched as hotel staff used heavy machinery to deposit fresh truckloads of sand along the property's beach. Without these costly interventions, much of the resort's shoreline would be underwater.

Locals told me that they had seen beaches shrink progressively smaller over recent decades. An elder from the island of Rasdhoo recalled playing soccer on the beach as a child - an area now completely submerged. And on Thulusdhoo, several homes along the island's edge had been abandoned as erosion left them perilously close to the tideline.

But it's not just beaches that are being lost. Rising seas are beginning to inundate freshwater aquifers, increase soil salinization, and damage shoreline infrastructure across the Maldives. On Fuvahmulah, the island's waste management site sits precariously close to the ocean's edge, threatening to pollute the surrounding waters. And on Addu Atoll, locals showed me how saltwater had contaminated wells that were previously a vital source of fresh drinking water.

"Every year, we are losing more and more of our land to the sea," a local representative from Fuvahmulah told me solemnly. "For a small island nation like ours, even just a few more inches of sea level rise could be catastrophic." He lamented how little global action was being taken to curb emissions despite impassioned pleas from Maldivians.

Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives - The Disappearing Island Nation


The very existence of the Maldives is under threat. This island nation, made up of over 1,000 coral islands scattered across the Indian Ocean, faces complete disappearance by 2050 as rising seas overwhelm its shores. The prospect is almost too awful to imagine – an entire sovereign country and culture, erased from the map.

Yet this is the stark reality facing the 375,000 Maldivians who call these islands home. To grasp what’s at stake for them, you need only look at the wrenching stories of individual islanders.

Take Mohamed, who I met on Komandoo Island. He was forced to uproot his family after the beach retreated past his small home. “The ocean took our land,” he told me, staring out at the waves lapping just feet from his old property. “This island is shrinking every day.”

Or Aminath, on Thulusdhoo, who worries for her daughters’ safety from flooding. She asks herself how long their home will even be habitable as the sea encroaches ever closer. “Will they inherit anything of their homeland?” she wonders aloud.
There are also stories of ancient burial sites being swallowed by the tide, and of entire communities needing to consolidate onto fewer habitable islands. Infrastructure like hospitals and schools is being relocated at enormous expense.

For islanders, the loss of land is more than just physical – it represents a loss of heritage and identity. “We are people of the sea, but it is now turning against us,” said a local elder named Hassan. Throughout history, Maldivians crafted a unique culture rooted in these tropical islands. Now, they helplessly watch their past wash away.
Of course, the loss extends beyond just the human impact. Unique ecosystems, from coral reefs to atoll lagoons, are also disappearing as oceans acidify and temperatures rise. Entire species found nowhere else on Earth face extinction.

The international community is increasingly acknowledging the existential threat that climate change poses to the Maldives. But action remains far too slow for these islanders on the frontlines. Their entire nation is sinking beneath the waves while the world debates emissions targets.

The loss of the Maldives would reverberate globally. This vanishing act would showcase the grave injustice of climate change – that those least responsible often suffer its worst consequences. It would shake our collective faith in international cooperation. And it would rob the world of a remarkable island paradise unlike any other.

Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives - A People Underwater


As seas rise higher around them, Maldivians face a deeply uncertain future beneath the waves. Family homes, communities, entire cultures teeter on the brink, perilously close to being submerged. To grasp what’s at stake, you need only hear the voices of the islanders themselves.

“The ocean took our land,” Mohamed told me as we stood where his small home once sat, now claimed by the tide. “This island shrinks more every year.” He and his family were among the first climate refugees, forced to flee Komandoo as the sands retreated into surf. They left behind the only life they had known to start anew in the crowded capital.
On Thulusdhoo, Aminath invited me for Milo coffee in the modest living room she shares with her two young daughters. During monsoon season, ocean water now rises through the floorboards at least once a month due to flooding. Her girls have learned to quickly gather essentials into bags when the water begins seeping in.

“I worry about disease from the floods,” Aminath frets. “And I worry this home will be underwater before my daughters are grown.” She cannot bear the thought of them becoming like Mohamed – adrift, severed from their community and the island that nurtured them.
“We are people of the sea, but now it turns against us,” an elder named Hassan lamented. He told me how ancient burial sites had already been desecrated, washed away by waves that once brought life. Entire lineages erased, like footprints on a beach.
On Fuvahmulah, a young man named Rashid took me to see the island’s waste site, which he fears will soon leach pollution into the surrounding ocean. Community leaders desperately lack resources to relocate it to higher ground. “We are doing what we can,” he said. “But we cannot work fast enough.”

These are the human impacts that haunt me most. The homes abandoned, families uprooted, communities fraying as the very ground beneath their feet disappears. Ancestral islands that nurtured generations, now threatening to claim them.

“Will they have anything left of their homeland?” Aminath asks of her daughters. It is a question that weighs on all Maldivians: whether their culture and heritage will survive the rising tide.

Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives - Escaping Atlantis


Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives

As the tides rise higher, many Maldivians face a stark choice: flee their sinking islands or go down with them. The prospect of evacuating ancestral homelands does not come easily, but as the waters creep higher year after year, abandoning Atlantis is becoming the only option for survival.

I spoke with families across the Maldives’ 1,200 islands who have already been forced to make this wrenching decision. For Mohamed, the choice came when erosion left his small home perilously close to the ocean’s edge on Komandoo Island. “The sea was taking more land every day. We had no choice but to leave,” he told me, gazing out at the waves now lapping where his property once stood. His family became some of the first climate refugees, abandoning the only community they knew to rebuild their lives in the crowded capital city of Malé.
On Gaaf Dhaal island, I met Aminath, a mother of two young girls who took me on a tour of the modest living room she shares with her daughters. She pointed to discolorations on the wall where ocean water seeps in during monsoon season, flooding the home up to three feet. “Last year the water was higher than my waist,” she recalled. “We had to evacuate in the night.” Aminath worries the brackish floodwaters could bring cholera and other diseases. She frets over subjecting her girls to frequent displacement, which offers little promise of stability for their future.

Aminath does not want her family to become 'internally displaced people', forced to permanently consolidate on other islands. But she can also no longer deny that rising seas will eventually make Gaaf Dhaal uninhabitable. “I do not want to leave our home island,” Aminath tells me, fighting back tears. “But we cannot allow the ocean to take our girls’ future.” Evacuating is a devastating last resort, but she sees no other long-term choice.
Her story is all too common across the Maldives. On island after island, communities are grappling with the same painful calculus: remain on beloved but endangered ancestral lands, or flee to foreign shores before it is too late. “Some still deny the severity, but floods don't lie,” said Mohamed Nasheed, the Maldives’ former president, whom I met on Male. He has become an outspoken advocate for climate action and disaster preparedness, even as he hopes somehow to save his people's homeland.

The Maldivian government has already begun eying potential evacuation strategies, from elevating islands to buying foreign territory to relocate citizens. But Nasheed knows climate change will not wait for slow bureaucracy. “We must start the difficult discussion about organized relocation,” he told me. Nasheed himself was forced from office in a coup, but remains committed to his people. “We will not give up on our islands. But we must have contingency plans.”

Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives - The Future Is Sinking


The future is sinking for the Maldives. This island nation faces complete inundation by 2050 as rising seas overwhelm its shores. For the 375,000 Maldivians who call these islands home, time is running out to preserve their ancestral homelands. Their very existence is under threat.
“We are living on borrowed time,” Mohamed Nasheed, the former president, told me with somber urgency. “The world must understand - for us climate change is not academic. It is visceral.”

Nasheed has become an impassioned voice calling for climate action to save his sinking nation. When we met on the crowded capital island of Male, he stressed that global cooperation is the only hope. But he worries the world is not listening closely enough.
“The Maldives is the canary in the coal mine,” he said, referencing the caged birds once used to warn miners of toxic gasses. “What’s happening here foreshadows disasters that await coastal regions worldwide. Our islands are just experiencing it first.”

That is how I came to meet Aminath, on her eroding island of Gaaf Dhaal. She served me sweet coffee as her two daughters giggled and played. Then her smile faded as she described the monthly floods that force them to flee their home.

“We are first, but won't be last,” Nasheed reminded me. Indeed, nations from Bangladesh to Vietnam also face potential extinction. And collapsing ice sheets threaten cities from New York to Shanghai as seas swell higher.

But if the world can somehow curb emissions and save the Maldives, it would symbolize hope triumphing over cynicism. It would prove global cooperation is possible, even at the precipice. And it would spare a remarkable culture from being washed away for good.
So the Maldives clutches to survival, racing to adapt however it can. But its destiny hinges on forces far beyond its control. Ultimately, this island nation’s future depends on decisive action from those of us fortunate enough to live above water. For if we fail to cut emissions in time, the Maldives will be just the first country sunk.

Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives - Swimming Against the Tide


Island Life on the Edge: Witnessing Sea Level Rise Firsthand in the Maldives

The Maldivian people are not giving up hope. Despite the overwhelming odds stacked against them, everyday citizens across the archipelago's 1,200 islands are taking action to do whatever they can to save their ancestral homelands. Their efforts, both big and small, represent a dogged determination to keep their heads above water even as the tide rises higher.

Take Mohamed, a local school teacher on the island of Thulusdhoo. After watching floodwaters repeatedly inundate the schoolyard, he mobilized his students to plant mangroves along the coastline. "We know the mangroves cannot stop the rising seas," he told me. "But maybe they can help break the waves during storms and buy us a little more time." Mohamed sees educating the next generation about climate change as crucial. "We must give them the tools to carry on the fight."

Then there's Aminath, a mother of two young girls on Komandoo. She helped form a women's collective that patrols the island shoreline, measuring beach erosion and identifying the most vulnerable areas. They use their data to lobby local officials to prioritize resources for threatened seawalls and other adaptive measures. "We women are watching our family homes wash away," Aminath said. "So we must be voices for our islands."

Atoll-wide efforts are also underway, often led by students. On Gaaf Dhaal, teenagers have planted thousands of mangroves and corals under the guidance of marine biologists. Their goal is to create "bioshields" to absorb wave energy and reduce erosion. "We want to show the world we haven't given up," said 17-year-old Aishath. "There is always something you can do, even if it's just a small act."

On Fuvahmulah, Rashid helped organize weekly beach cleanups to clear trash and debris that could intensify flooding and reef damage. He posts photos of each haul online to raise awareness. "We must care for our islands," he told me, "because our islands have cared for generations before us."

And former president Mohamed Nasheed continues his global advocacy, arguing that saving the Maldives could galvanize worldwide climate action. "We want the world to see that we have not surrendered to our fate," he said. "We are swimming against the tide because we believe the tide can still be turned."

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