Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard’s Historic Antarctic Expedition
Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard's Historic Antarctic Expedition - The Terra Nova's Perilous Voyage South
The journey south to Antarctica aboard the Terra Nova was fraught with danger from the very beginning. When the expedition ship set sail from the Welsh port of Cardiff in June 1910, few could have imagined the trials and tribulations that lay ahead. As Cherry-Garrard recounted in his memoir The Worst Journey in the World, the seas were relentlessly rough even before leaving the coast of England. Massive waves smashed over the bow, flooding the decks and cabins below. The violent lurching of the vessel left many on the crew desperately seasick.
Things only got worse as the Terra Nova ventured farther south into the stormy Southern Ocean. Gale force winds whipped up titanic waves that tossed the ship about like a toy. Even the most seasoned sailors aboard were amazed that the aged wooden vessel could withstand such brutal punishment from the elements. At times, Cherry-Garrard feared the Terra Nova would break apart and sink beneath the icy waves.
As the expedition pushed ever closer to Antarctica's frozen shores, lookouts kept constant watch for icebergs that could rip open the ship's hull in an instant. Massive tabular bergs over a hundred feet tall drifted silently like submarine mountains, threatening to crush the Terra Nova if it strayed too close. Even small pieces of brash ice posed a serious danger that could damage propellers and rudders. Navigation became extremely difficult in the frequent snow squalls that reduced visibility to just a few feet.
Landing on Antarctica's rocky coast brought little respite. gale force katabatic winds barreled down off the polar plateau, threatening to dash the ship onto the jagged rocks. Anchorages were scarce, so the Terra Nova often had to stand off the coast for days at a time, unable to offload critical supplies and personnel. Finally, after weeks of torment, the expedition established its Cape Evans base. But Cherry-Garrard and the others knew full well that returning home would require braving the Southern Ocean and its storms once more. For now, they could only pray that the battered Terra Nova would somehow survive the voyage back.
What else is in this post?
- Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard's Historic Antarctic Expedition - The Terra Nova's Perilous Voyage South
- Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard's Historic Antarctic Expedition - Setting Foot on the Great White Continent
- Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard's Historic Antarctic Expedition - Surviving the Relentless Polar Winds
- Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard's Historic Antarctic Expedition - Trudging Across Crevasse-Ridden Ice
- Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard's Historic Antarctic Expedition - The Race to Reach the Penguin Rookeries
- Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard's Historic Antarctic Expedition - Searching for Rocks from the Ancient World
- Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard's Historic Antarctic Expedition - Losing Companions Along the Way
- Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard's Historic Antarctic Expedition - Cherry-Garrard's Bittersweet Homecoming
Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard's Historic Antarctic Expedition - Setting Foot on the Great White Continent
Stepping onto Antarctic soil for the first time must have felt like entering an alien world to Cherry-Garrard and the other explorers aboard the Terra Nova. After enduring weeks of storms and constantly wrestling with the ship's pitching and rolling, having solid ground beneath their feet was surely a relief. Yet Antarctica presented dangers all its own. The vast polar wilderness stretched out before them, beautiful yet harsh and unforgiving.
As Cherry-Garrard described, moving inland meant dragging sledges laden with tons of supplies over jagged ridges, gaping crevasses, and fields of unstable snow. Like ghosts, snowy petrels circled overhead while seals lounged on ice floes offshore. The seeming emptiness and silence could be deceptive, however. Killer whales swam just beneath the frozen surface, bursting through suddenly to snatch an unlucky penguin. Skuas robbed eggs and chicks from nests when negligent parents looked away. And of course, the ever-present danger of storms lurked. So too did the possibility of becoming disoriented and lost in the featureless expanse of snow and ice.
Still, Cherry-Garrard remarked on the stark splendor of the Antarctic environment. Standing on windswept volcanic peaks offered views of seemingly endless ice fields and glaciers flowing slowly seaward. Pristine snow glistened under the midnight sun, its crystals scintillating all the colors of the rainbow. Against this monochromatic backdrop, colonies of penguins provided delightful splashes of black and white as they waddled to and fro. For all its dangers and deprivations, Antarctica clearly captivated Cherry-Garrard with its terrible beauty.
Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard's Historic Antarctic Expedition - Surviving the Relentless Polar Winds
Braving the katabatic winds of Antarctica challenged Cherry-Garrard and his companions to their very limits. These gale force winds barrel down off the polar plateau, funneled through mountain passes and blowing fiercely along the coast. Gusts can reach over 100 mph, capable of knocking a man off his feet or ripping away loosely secured tents and equipment. Even on relatively calm days, steady winds of 30-40 mph sap strength and make every movement a battle. Surviving and traveling in such conditions tested the mettle of even the hardiest explorers.
Cherry-Garrard vividly described the hellish experience of slogging forward into an Antarctic blizzard. Snow driven by screaming winds blasted exposed flesh like shards of glass, threatening frostbite in minutes. Just erecting a tent or lighting the stove could become an arduous undertaking. Frost caked around eyes and noses despite multiple layers of wool, fur, and windproof fabrics. Fingers and toes went numb even inside thick mittens and boots. Exhaustion came quickly from expending huge amounts of energy just to take each step. Still, the men had to push themselves to the very brink of endurance, mile after mile, day after day.
These winds weren't just uncomfortable, they could be deadly. A man separated from his group even briefly would likely perish. Tents had to be sturdily constructed and anchored down. Supplies had to be stored safely or cached so they weren't blown away and lost. Sled dogs had to be protected or they would freeze. There was no margin for error or complacency. Antarctica's winds ruthlessly exploited any weakness or mistake.
Survival required teamwork, grit, and utter determination. Each man had to pull his weight quite literally, dragging the heavy sledges forward together when dogs couldn't handle the loads. They took turns breaking trail and shared precious food and fuel. During storms, they huddled together in cramped tents, willing the wind to stop screeching. Somehow, they found the willpower to keep putting one foot in front of the other despite the cries of their wind-lashed bodies to stop.
Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard's Historic Antarctic Expedition - Trudging Across Crevasse-Ridden Ice
Crossing Antarctica's crevasse fields was one of the most frightening and dangerous tasks facing Cherry-Garrard and his fellow explorers. These gaping rifts in the ice can be dozens of feet wide and hundreds of feet deep - deep enough to swallow a man whole. Even jumping across narrow cracks could mean plunging into the frigid depths below if the ice edge crumbled underfoot. Crevasses couldn't always be seen either, hidden under a thin layer of snow that could give way without warning. Groups had to slowly zig-zag, probing ahead with poles to find safe passage. Falling in was a constant danger that could cripple or kill in an instant.
Cherry-Garrard described the absolute necessity of being roped together when crossing heavily crevassed areas. If one man tumbled in, the others could hopefully arrest his fall and haul him back up to safety. Of course, if multiple men fell at once, the results could still be catastrophic. The teams also dragged sledges laden with hundreds of pounds of vital supplies. Watching one disappear into a crevasse meant losing food, fuel, and other provisions essential for survival.
Navigating through these "ice falls" proved incredibly tedious. The field might stretch for miles, requiring days to cross. Plunging a pole through into open space again and again wore down both body and spirit. Even uncrevassed surfaces could be treacherous, with snow bridges hiding voids just underneath. Moving slowly and deliberately despite fatigue demanded immense patience and care. One lapse of vigilance could undo the entire expedition - as Cherry-Garrard somberly recounted regarding the deaths of captain Scott and his polar party.
Crossing such dangerous terrain on foot was grueling enough. Doing it while manhauling heavy sledges magnified the challenge tenfold. Muscles burned with exertion as the men dragged hundreds of pounds behind them, inch by inch. The risk of injury was ever present. A stumble or twisted ankle could be disastrous. They relied heavily on their sled dogs who proved more surefooted on the unstable ice. But the dogs too were vulnerable, sometimes crashing through if they lost their footing. It took a supreme team effort - men and animals working together - to thread a way through safely.
Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard's Historic Antarctic Expedition - The Race to Reach the Penguin Rookeries
The penguin rookeries represented an invaluable scientific opportunity for Cherry-Garrard and the Terra Nova expedition. Studying these unique Antarctic colonies up close would provide crucial insights into the birds' behaviors, breeding patterns, and population dynamics. At the time, little was known about the emperor and Adélie penguins that congregated in the many rookeries fringing the continent. But reaching them before the brief summer ended posed a formidable challenge.
After establishing supply depots, the explorers faced a race against time, deteriorating weather, and their own withering stamina. Trekking mile after backbreaking mile, they slogged over icy terrain riddled with obstacles. Massive crevasses threatened to swallow them whole while howling winds and blinding snow took constant vigilance to endure. Temperatures plunging to -40 F could freeze exposed flesh in an instant. Yet the promise of observing the teeming rookeries drove the men beyond normal human limits.
Step by agonizing step, they forged their way inland, manhauling heavy sledges when the dogs could go no farther. Cherry-Garrard describes the immense relief upon finally sighting the first penguin nests after weeks of travel. The birds' raucous squawking and the rich smell of guano announced their arrival. Now the true work could begin - methodically surveying, counting, and charting the rookeries under scientists like Dr. Wilson and Dr. Bowers. Endless pages of observations had to be recorded and specimens gathered, often in brutally harsh conditions with no shelter. Only a narrow window existed before winter set in and the adults and chicks departed.
The penguin colonies proved even more wondrous than hoped. Myriads of birds crowded the breeding grounds in densities far beyond anything the team expected. Wilson wrote with awe of the tumult and busyness of the rookeries, adding that "guinsiness" should be a word to describe them. For Cherry-Garrard, just witnessing the dynamic rituals of courtship, mating, and chick-rearing made the sufferings of the journey worthwhile. In those primitive cries and displays, he sensed a connection to the origins of life itself, feeling History look over his shoulder.
Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard's Historic Antarctic Expedition - Searching for Rocks from the Ancient World
The search for rocks and fossils from Antarctica's deep past was one of the Terra Nova expedition's key scientific goals. In Cherry-Garrard's words, these samples offered a glimpse into "the unknown pioneers of the great ice age." Though the continent now sits smothered under thousands of feet of ice, Antarctica was once a far warmer place where dinosaurs roamed and forests grew. Finding geological specimens promised insights into its ancient history and climate.
Of particular interest were formations like Mount Buckley and Mount Hooker where eroded sedimentary rock layers were exposed. Searching their talus slopes and exposed strata for fossils became a prime target. Experience from prior fossil hunting expeditions in Egypt and India proved invaluable. Patiently scouring the ground and splitting open iron-hard rocks could reveal the preserved remains of long-extinct flora and fauna. Signs of ancient forests or coal deposits would provide evidence of Antarctica's once far warmer climate.
Hauling a sledge piled high with rock samples made tough going across the trackless ice fields. But it was exciting work as Wilson remarked with each new discovery. Delicate fern impressions, seed cones, fossil wood - all helped complete the picture of Antarctica's biological and geological past. Transporting these precious specimens home would allow leading paleontologists to study them extensively. Some of the fossils found dated back over 300 million years to the Carboniferous Period when the region lay near the South Pole of the great Gondwanaland supercontinent.
In the Cape Crozier region, searching for fossils required surmounting 700-foot cliffs of black shale while fighting howling winds. But the richness of their finds kept Cherry-Garrard and his companions chiseling diligently despite frozen fingers. Enduring such hardships was forgotten upon unearthing marvels like a 300 million-year-old glossopteris tree fragment. To them, each specimen told part of Antarctica's story, bringing its history alive. Their work built upon pioneers like Ross and Shackleton who also gathered crucial geological samples during earlier expeditions.
Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard's Historic Antarctic Expedition - Losing Companions Along the Way
The perils of Antarctica tragically claimed the lives of some of Cherry-Garrard's fellow explorers. Losing close companions along the way left painful voids, yet also strengthened bonds among those who survived. Their shared suffering in the face of loss forged an unbreakable camaraderie.
The first major tragedy struck in March 1912 during the grueling return crossing of the Ross Ice Shelf. Lieutenant "Titus" Evans, the youngest member of the expedition, became dangerously ill with scurvy. Without vitamin C, his body could not repair itself from the immense physical strain. Evans grew severely anemic and too feeble to stand, much less pull a sledge. After weeks of this brutal manhauling journey, his condition deteriorated until he slipped into a coma. His companions could only wrap Evans in their sleeping bags as he lay unmoving in the tent. Death soon followed - a crushing emotional blow barely a week from their planned arrival at base camp. Cherry-Garrard and the others were haunted by the fact that Evans likely had just days to live when they abandoned him.
An even greater calamity had befallen the polar party led by Scott in their bid to reach the South Pole first. Scott and his team including Wilson, Oates, Bowers, and Evans perished on their return march, trapped in their tent by a blizzard a mere 11 miles from a vital supply depot. Cherry-Garrard later found the haunting scene - skeletal remains, journals, and letters. Their terrible fate underscored the razor-thin margin between survival and disaster in Antarctica's unforgiving environment. Back at Cape Evans, hopes that the polar party might still be alive gradually faded to black sorrow.
The expedition had embarked with high spirits, not anticipating how thoroughly Antarctica would test their endurance and claim lives. Evans' and Scott's deaths grieved the survivors profoundly. They undertook a solemn memorial service in Antarctica, reading Tennyson as the wind keened. The Ross Sea party suffered its own losses, including three men who vanished into a blizzard never to be seen again. Shackleton's harrowing trans-Antarctic bid also had its share of casualties. Antarctica has always exacted a toll on those who venture onto its icy wastes.
Into the White: Retracing Apsley Cherry-Garrard's Historic Antarctic Expedition - Cherry-Garrard's Bittersweet Homecoming
After three grueling years exploring the farthest reaches of Antarctica, Apsley Cherry-Garrard and the other survivors of the Terra Nova Expedition at last embarked on the long voyage back to civilization in January 1913. As their ship steamed north across the Southern Ocean, Cherry-Garrard stood alone on the deck taking one final look at the great white continent receding into the distance. He was bound for home and the comforts of hearth and family, yet Antarctica had left an indelible mark upon his soul. His homecoming would prove bittersweet.
Having witnessed such stark beauty and grandeur, Cherry-Garrard struggled to reconcile himself to life back in London. The dismal drizzle of Petticoat Lane seemed trivial after experiencing the savage majesty of the blizzards at Cape Crozier. The Antarctic had tested him body and mind like nothing before, pushing him to the ragged edge of human endurance. He had grown accustomed to the purity and freedom of the polar wastes. Returning to the smoggy bustle of the city felt suffocating.
Like Shackleton before him, Cherry-Garrard found himself pining for Antarctica long after departing its inhospitable shores. In his memoir, he wrote of dreading the regimented tedium of civilization that lay ahead. The stark simplicity of the explorers' existence on the ice had fostered an incredible camaraderie. He missed the close bonds forged with Wilson, Bowers and other expedition members now gone. Their absence weighed heavily during celebrations in London and across Britain hailing the Terra Nova’s return.
Of course, Cherry-Garrard was glad to enjoy hot baths and comfortable beds after three years of tunneled tents and finicky primus stoves. He took delight in simple pleasures like having a beer at his favorite pub or strolling through Hyde Park in springtime. But readjusting to normal life after Antarctica proved a greater challenge than he anticipated. Like others before him, Cherry-Garrard found himself wrestling with a form of polar madness - strains of deep sadness, alienation and nostalgia.
His ambivalence showed in small ways. Visitors remarked on his distractedness during conversations, his thoughts clearly elsewhere. He often stared off silently into the distance as if beholding some phantom vista. At dinner parties, he monopolized discussions with tales of Adélie penguins and crevasse rescues that puzzled fellow guests. They could not understand his obvious pining for a continent of ice and desolation.