Following in the Footsteps of St. Francis: Exploring Italy's 800-Year-Old Christmas Traditions

Following in the Footsteps of St. Francis: Exploring Italy's 800-Year-Old Christmas Traditions - The Nativity Scene Lives On

The nativity scene, or presepe as it is known in Italy, holds a special place in Italian Christmas traditions. Its origins can be traced back over 800 years to the little town of Greccio, where according to legend, St. Francis created the first living nativity scene in 1223 to commemorate the birth of Jesus. From these humble beginnings, the presepe tradition spread throughout Italy and Europe, evolving over centuries while retaining its core meaning and symbolism.

Today, Italians continue to set up intricate nativity scenes in their homes, churches, town squares and shops during the Christmas season. For many, it is the true heart of holiday celebrations. The painstaking effort that goes into assembling the presepe represents a labor of love and deep spiritual significance. Typically including the holy family, animals, angels, shepherds, and the three wise men, the figurines and scenery recreate the story of Christmas. Some displays incorporate moving elements and music to enhance the experience. The figurines are often handed down for generations or collected over a lifetime.

In Greccio, where it all started, visitors can see a permanent living nativity scene set up outside the cavern where St. Francis created his. Actors dressed as Mary, Joseph, angels, shepherds and animals help bring the original presepe to life for crowds who flock to the spot. Nearby, the Sanctuary of Greccio pays tribute to St. Francis with sculptures and artworks inspired by that first Christmas night so long ago.

Following in the Footsteps of St. Francis: Exploring Italy's 800-Year-Old Christmas Traditions - From Greccio to Modern Times

The nativity scene may have originated eight centuries ago in Greccio, but its significance and popularity remain strong in modern-day Italy. As times change, the presepe evolves - yet the core elements endure. For Italian families, setting up the nativity scene each Christmas is more than just decking the halls. It is a beloved ritual that bonds generations and pays homage to treasured traditions.

While the materials and methods for crafting nativity scenes have advanced, devotion to the presepe has stayed constant. Innovations like sculpted terracotta figurines and animatronics meet timeless practices like gathering moss and stones. Whether nestled in a humble corner or showcased in an elaborate diorama, the scene evokes wonder and brings the Christmas story to life. Little has changed in what Italians seek to gain from gazing upon the bambino in the manger.

Centuries on, St. Francis' vision thrives. For couples like Gina and Pietro, assembling the presepe is a joint labor of love. Each year, they unwrap the precious figurines that once belonged to Pietro's nonna.Arranging the familiar characters in new poses and settings breathes fresh joy into their tradition. Though trends come and go, the nativity remains their anchor through life's seasons. It connects them to Christmases past and future.

Generations of the Rossi family have looked to the presepe as the heart of festivities. Though the kids now fight over who places baby Jesus, they share the wonder Gina and Pietro once felt gazing at the scene their elders made. Whether the decor is elaborate or modest, the meaning shines through. For families across Italy, the nativity scene symbolizes what Christmas is all about.

Following in the Footsteps of St. Francis: Exploring Italy's 800-Year-Old Christmas Traditions - Christmas Markets Old and New

Christmas markets, or mercatini di Natale, are a cherished tradition in Italy that enliven town squares and pedestrian streets every holiday season. While the first documented Christmas market dates back to 1294 in Bologna, these festive outdoor markets have medieval origins in Germany and Austria before spreading across Europe. Each winter, over 300 mercatini pop up across Italy's villages, towns and cities. Browsing the brightly lit wooden stalls, the smell of roasted chestnuts and sound of holiday music fill the air. It's a magical experience for locals and visitors alike.

One of the most renowned and historic markets is the Trento Christmas Market in the northern Trentino-Alto Adige region. Dating back to the 12th century, it sprawls through Piazza Fiera and surrounding streets with over 100 twinkling stalls. Beyond typical trinkets, you'll discover quality handmade crafts by local artisans. Don't miss sipping vin brulè (mulled wine) in a commemorative mug while snacking on strudel and other regional treats. The abundant sweets, baked goods and cured meats reflect the Austrian and German influences in this area bordering the Alps.

Further south in Umbria lies what's billed as the world's biggest Christmas market in the medieval town of Gubbio. Over 200 stands fill the streets at the foot of Mount Ingino for the annual Mercatini di Natale. While browsing gifts and ornaments, make sure to sample Umbrian delicacies like truffles, olive oil and wild boar sausages. At dusk on Dec 7, the world's largest Christmas tree made of over 600 lights blinks to life on the mountainside above, a mesmerizing sight.

While traditional markets showcase local culture, newer markets focus more on kitschy crafts, food trucks and entertainment. The East Market market at the Parco Esposizioni Novegro near Milan takes overItaly's largest exhibition center each November through January. With an indoor winter wonderland theme, you'll find everything from tree lighting to ice skating, concerts, circus acts, Santa meet-and-greets and mountains of street food.

Following in the Footsteps of St. Francis: Exploring Italy's 800-Year-Old Christmas Traditions - Feasting on Eels and Other Traditions

Among Italy's time-honored Christmas culinary customs, feasting on eel stands out as one of the most fascinating. While indulging in seafood dishes during the holidays may seem unusual to outsiders, this tradition holds deep roots. As early as the 4th century, ancient Christian texts connected eel to the Vigil of the Seven Fishes, the meatless Christmas Eve feast. Back then, fasting laws forbid eating meat or dairy on the holy day commemorating Jesus' birth. Seafood offered a permitted protein-packed alternative.

Over the centuries, regional Italian dishes incorporated local eel varieties into cenone della Vigilia menus. In the past, housewives would keep live eels wriggling in tubs for weeks leading up to Christmas Eve. My friend Carla grimaces as she recalls her nonna's garage setup! Nowadays, most Italians rely on fishmongers, though specialty dishes carry on.

In Rome, fried eel with tomatoes and peas is traditional. Further south, the Sicilian spin is capitone fritto – long slices of eel dusted in flour and fried. Neapolitans prefer grilled eel with lemon leaves. Up north near the Venetian lagoon, baby eels star in fritole, rice and eel croquettes. My Venetian pal Marco makes his with love every Christmas Eve.

Beyond eel, regional Italian fare graces the traditional Feast of Seven Fishes. Crispy fried anchovy fillets, shrimp scampi, lobster ravioli, seafood salads, and marinated baccalà cod feature alongside heirloom recipes. Desserts include puff pastries shaped like fish and deep-fried dough dusted with powdered sugar called cartellate.

In modern times, not every family upholds the full seven-course menu. But most still honor the essence of the meal − gathering with loved ones to feast on the ocean's bounty this holy night. The dishes may evolve, but the intention remains meaningful.

Following in the Footsteps of St. Francis: Exploring Italy's 800-Year-Old Christmas Traditions - Music and Caroling Through the Ages

Across the ages, music and caroling have provided the soundtrack to Christmas in Italy. While beloved tunes and traditions have been passed down through generations, new movements and composers have also left their mark. The result is a rich tapestry of sounds that ring out from piazzas, churches and homes each Advent and Christmas season.

St. Francis of Assisi, the patron saint of Italy credited with creating the first nativity scene, also had a hand in promoting joyful Christmas music. Legend holds that in the 13th century, St. Francis and his followers went caroling through the streets of Greccio singing vernacular songs praising the birth of Christ. This represented a shift from solely liturgical Latin music to celebrations everyone could understand.

Centuries on, those timeless carols familiar to churchgoers worldwide have their origins in medieval Italy. Compositions like "O Come, O Come Emmanuel" and "Good Christian Men, Rejoice" emerged around this era, though their creators remain unknown. Traditional carols dealing more closely with the nativity story like "O Little Town of Bethlehem" and "Away in a Manger" arrived in the 17th-19th centuries from various origins. Italy's own "Tu Scendi Dalle Stelle" ("You Come Down from the Stars"), penned by Saint Alphonsus Ligouri in the 1700s, is now beloved globally.

Yet one of the most renowned Italian Christmas classics hails from Austria - "Silent Night." Father Joseph Mohr wrote the lyrics in German in 1816. Two years later, he asked composer Franz Xaver Gruber to set it to music for Christmas Eve mass. The resulting piece is one of the most recorded and translated carols ever created. Each December, countless Italians and German speakers still sing Gruber's arrangement for midnight mass celebrations.

Beyond carols, symphonic works and operatic pieces also contribute to the sounds of the season. Antonio Vivaldi's "Gloria" captures contagious joy and jubilance. Ottorino Respighi's orchestral "Laud to the Nativity" paints a cinematic musical picture full of wonder. Seasonal arias from great operas transport listeners to celebrations past, voices soaring in candlelit cathedrals.

Following in the Footsteps of St. Francis: Exploring Italy's 800-Year-Old Christmas Traditions - Midnight Mass at St. Peter's Basilica

For Catholics worldwide, midnight mass at St. Peter's Basilica ranks among the most significant and inspiring Christmas Eve celebrations. Each year, the holy day draws tens of thousands of faithful pilgrims to the epicenter of the Roman Catholic faith. While Christmas masses take place in church communities large and small, few rival the magnitude and grandeur of this vespers service presided over by the Pope himself.

The setting alone elicits awe - St. Peter's gilded interior lit by thousands of candles, resplendent with art and statuary honoring the faith. As the clock strikes midnight, glorious sounds of pipe organ and choir echo to the soaring dome. But beyond the tremendous scale, midnight mass here captures profound meaning. This place marks the tomb of St. Peter, the apostle considered the first Pope. It was Peter whom Jesus named the "rock" upon which he would build his church.

For worshippers like Simone, midnight mass at St. Peter's represents the pinnacle of her family's traditional Vigilia celebrations. She wouldn't dream of missing this mass even after attending service at her local parish earlier. Her sentimental memories date back to childhood when she dozed off in the pews as a young girl while her parents gently nudged her awake to receive communion. Now married with children of her own, the experience still gives her chills.

James, visiting Rome from the U.S. one Christmas, arose at 3 a.m. to wait in the predawn chill for security screening before mass. Despite weary feet and eyes stung by cold winds, entering the magnificent basilica filled him with wonder. He was touched to take communion alongside faithful who had traveled even farther. For James, the fatigue vanished as the first Christmas hymns resonated.

While Padre Pio's parish in Pietrelcina hosts devoted locals for midnight mass in their small stone church, Father Maximus embraces the crowds at St. Peter's. In both settings, he feels closest to God delivering the Eucharist on this holy night. Though massive in scale, the soaring basilica still fosters an intimate spiritual connection.

Following in the Footsteps of St. Francis: Exploring Italy's 800-Year-Old Christmas Traditions - Carrying the Yule Log Home

The image of families hauling home enormous holiday logs may seem more suited to rustic Christmas celebrations of old. But for many Italians, the tradition of trasporto del ceppo, carrying the yule log, continues to enhance festivities with meaning and merriment.

My friend Matteo fondly recalls the yearly spectacle of his father struggling to maneuver the massive oak ceppo through their front door. Sometimes it got jammed at odd angles as his dad grunted and pushed, eventually recruiting uncles to help wedge it inside. After much effort, the log would finally get situated by the fireplace to burn in offering through Epiphany.

Deep roots anchor this custom that once provided literal and spiritual warmth during midwinter festivals predating Christianity. The yule log, or ceppo di Natale, holds symbolism tied to light overcoming darkness and the return of longer days. The practice of choosing, transporting and lighting it maintains this significance even in modern times.

For Martina’s family, their ceppo carries generations of history bound up in its rings. Her nonno long ago planted the oak they select each year, specifically for this purpose. When Martina and her parents return from the woods hauling it proudly on a cart, anticipation builds for Christmas Eve when they’ll set it ablaze together.

The communal nature of this tradition knits families and neighbors together. In Luciana’s village, a convoy heads up the mountainside on December 23rd to retrieve logs and evergreens. They return weary but waving trimmings cheerfully from their vehicles, ready to decorate. The children, trying their best to be helpful, gather kindling to assist getting the damp logs started later when the time comes. What can seem like an obsolete habit instead rings in the holidays.

The focus on logs from native trees makes trasporto del ceppo eco-friendly. Sourcing them locally eliminates the carbon footprint of importing cords from afar. Better still, some families living in cities forgo the now-impractical exercise of lugging whole logs. Instead, they carry on the spirit of the tradition through symbolic practices. Clara's parents gave her mini yule log ornaments for the tree each Christmas growing up. Now she does the same for her little ones.