Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima’s Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods
Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima's Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods - Barranco - Bohemian Heart of Lima's Arts Scene
Barranco is the artistic bohemian heart of Lima, full of colorful colonial architecture, cool galleries, hip bars and restaurants. This lively coastal district has an artsy, creative vibe reminiscent of Montmartre in Paris or Greenwich Village in New York City. Wander along the tree-lined Plaza de Armas surrounded by pastel buildings, or stroll down the pedestrian-only Calle de los Poetas adorned with romantic street lamps to soak up the romantic atmosphere.
Barranco's burgeoning arts scene first took off in the early 1900s when writers, poets and painters flocked here looking for inspiration. Today there are over 20 art galleries clustered in Barranco, primarily focused on contemporary Peruvian works. Some standout galleries to check out include Galería Lucía de la Puente showing painting, sculpture and photography, 80m2 Livia Benavides with cutting-edge installations, and Galería Forum specializing in graphic arts. Make sure to also see MATE Museo Mario Testino, founded by the famed Peruvian fashion photographer, for world-class exhibitions spanning fashion to archeology.
In addition to art galleries, Barranco is bursting with street art. As you wander past the neighborhood's many historic mansions, you'll stumble upon colorful murals and graffiti tags embellishing the walls. Some of the best areas to spot street art are around Parque Municipal, Bajada de Baños and Puente de los Suspiros. For a guided tour, Jo Tour Peru leads an excellent Barranco street art walking tour to discover the neighborhood's most famous murals and their hidden meanings.
When hunger strikes, Barranco offers an awesome array of restaurants, cafes and bars to fuel your explorations. Top picks include the eclectic boho-chic Dedo Gorde for Mediterranean fusion dining, La 73 for tasty sangria and tapas under a leafy courtyard, and artsy Cafe Bisetti. Make sure to also grab pisco sours and live music at Juanito's Bar, or check out Barranco Beer Company, Barranco's first microbrewery.
What else is in this post?
- Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima's Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods - Barranco - Bohemian Heart of Lima's Arts Scene
- Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima's Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods - Miraflores - Upscale Seaside Living and Dining
- Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima's Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods - San Isidro - Where Old Money Meets New Business
- Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima's Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods - Pueblo Libre - Lima's Cultural and Archaeological Hub
- Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima's Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods - La Victoria - Home of Authentic Criollo Cuisine
- Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima's Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods - Rimac - Colonial Architecture and Storied Markets
- Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima's Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods - Breña - Gritty, Creative, and Full of Surprises
- Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima's Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods - Callao - Port City Rich with History and Tradition
Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima's Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods - Miraflores - Upscale Seaside Living and Dining
With its ritzy high-rises, luxury hotels, and oceanfront setting, Miraflores is Lima's most upscale and tourist-friendly neighborhood. Located along the cliffs of the Pacific coastline, Miraflores combines vibrant city life with seaside ambiance. The neighborhood boasts beautiful parks perfect for strolling, a huge range of dining options from street food to fine dining, bustling nightlife, and many of Lima's top attractions.
For many visitors, Miraflores provides the perfect base for exploring Lima. Start your day watching surfers catch waves along the Costa Verde shoreline, then wander through Kennedy Park, locally known as Parque Central. This leafy green space is always teeming with life – locals walking dogs, friends gossiping on benches, teens skateboarding, street performers playing music. Stroll a few blocks over to Parque del Amor (Park of Love) to see its iconic El Beso statue of two lovers locked in an eternal kiss.
After getting your cultural fill, it's time for some retail therapy. The neighborhood's main drag, Avenida José Larco, is lined with busy cafes, international chain stores, and high-end Peruvian boutiques. Top stops include El Mercado Indio for colorful Andean handicrafts and LarcoMar, a ritzy open-air mall perched dramatically on the cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Grab lunch at eco-chic restaurant La Mar and enjoy top notch ceviche and pisco sours on their seaside patio.
As the sun sets, Miraflores' already-bustling streets spring even more to life. Huaca Pucllana, the magnificent pre-Incan temple, takes on an atmospheric glow during the nightly light show. Parque Kennedy transforms into a raucous scene of street performers, musicians, locals relaxing on benches, and tourists dining al fresco. Head to Calle de las Pizzas to join the lively crowds waiting for tables at one of the strip's many pizzerias. Or for a fancier night out, Miraflores offers some of Lima's top fine dining experiences, like acclaimed Central Restaurante or cutting-edge Maido led by star chef Mitsuharu Tsumura.
Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima's Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods - San Isidro - Where Old Money Meets New Business
Tucked between the bustling financial district and swanky Miraflores lies the leafy bourgeois neighborhood of San Isidro. This prestigious residential and commercial enclave is home to Lima's old elite alongside a new generation of entrepreneurs and businesspeople.
Wandering San Isidro's palm-lined streets feels like stepping back to the 1950s and 60s, when this was the most desirable address in Lima. The neighborhood is filled with sprawling mansions and villas showcasing a mix of colonial, Republican, and Art Deco architectural styles. Some of the most impressive historic homes are found along Avenues 2 de Mayo and Arequipa or around or around Parque El Olivar.
Despite its genteel, old money vibe, San Isidro has shaped itself into Lima's new hub of commerce. Just as New York City has Wall Street and London has the City, San Isidro is the beating heart of Peru's economy. This is where you'll find the majority of banks, financial firms, businesses, and multinational companies.
Stroll along Avenida Camino Real to experience San Isidro's dual personality. On one side stand embassies and colonial villas; on the other rise gleaming skyscrapers housing offices for major banks and corporations. Bounding either end are Parque El Olivar, a tranquil space for strolling and paddleboating, and El Ovalo Gutiérrez, a chaotic traffic circle constantly buzzing with activity.
Despite the workaday weekday rush, San Isidro manages to retain its refined residential charm. Locals fill Parque Francisco Bolognesi to walk dogs, play chess, or enjoy free open-air concerts. Visit on a weekend to experience San Isidro's family-friendly side, with kids frolicking in parks and queues at popular brunch spots spilling onto the sidewalk.
When it's time for wining and dining, San Isidro spoils residents and visitors with an array of excellent options. For a power business lunch, join high-powered executives at Malabar or Ámaz. In the evening, hip bars and lounges like Cannibal Royal and Bizarro liven up San Isidro's party scene. And foodies flock to innovative Nikkei hotspot Maido, run by world-renowned chef Mitsuharu Tsumura.
Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima's Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods - Pueblo Libre - Lima's Cultural and Archaeological Hub
Tucked away just beyond the tourist bustle of central Lima lies the charming neighborhood of Pueblo Libre. While this residential district may seem lowkey compared to glitzy Miraflores or artsy Barranco, Pueblo Libre packs some seriously intriguing culture and history within its tranquil streets.
Most visitors come to Pueblo Libre to explore the fascinating archaeological site of Huaca Pucllana. This towering adobe and clay pyramid dates back to around 500 AD and served as an administrative and ceremonial center under pre-Incan Lima culture. Guided tours wind through the site’s passageways and plazas, bringing ancient history to life. As you climb the imposing stepped ramp and stand atop the 40-foot high platform, it’s incredible to imagine sacred rituals and processions happening in this very spot centuries ago.
The best time to experience Huaca Pucllana is in the evening during the nightly light show. As darkness falls, skilled illuminations cast shifting colors and shadows to highlight the pyramid’s intriguing architecture. The illuminated ramps, terraces, and temples create an almost mystical aura. Set to atmospheric music, the 30-minute show is mesmerizing. "I've visited archaeological sites worldwide, but seeing the ancient adobe glow under magical lights was a one-of-a-kind experience," shared one Tripadvisor reviewer.
In addition to Incan history, Pueblo Libre provides an immersion into Lima's cultural heritage. The neighborhood is home to the Museum of Peruvian Gastronomy, inviting visitors to explore Peru's cuisine and culinary traditions. Displaying a collection of vintage cooking utensils, ancient Moche ceramic vessels, and even elephantine crop seeds, this museum provides insight into Peru's rich food culture. The onsite classes and tastings are a delicious way to connect with history.
For art lovers, the Miguel Aguado Museum of Contemporary Art showcases cutting-edge works by Peruvian talents. The striking modern building was designed to contrast with the surrounding historic homes, juxtaposing old and new. Pueblo Libre also houses one of Lima's best kept secrets: the Baroque-style Casa de Aliaga. Built in 1535, it stands as the oldest colonial mansion in Lima. The faded grandeur of this still-inhabited home provides a window into aristocratic life through the centuries.
Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima's Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods - La Victoria - Home of Authentic Criollo Cuisine
Tucked away in a gritty, working-class corner of Lima lies the unassuming neighborhood of La Victoria. At first glance, this bustling commercial district may not seem remarkable. But foodies know that La Victoria is an absolute must-visit pilgrimage for its status as the birthplace of authentic Peruvian cuisine.
As Torsten Jacobi revealed, when it comes to experiencing true local flavors, "La Victoria serves up the real deal." This is where Criollo cooking was born, fusing Spanish, African, Andean, Amazonian, Chinese, and Japanese influences into the complex, colorful cuisine Peru is renowned for today.
Wandering La Victoria's chaotic streets, hole-in-the-wall eateries tempt with aromas of slow-simmered stews, sizzling meats, and secret family recipes perfected over generations. For an immersive food tour, Jo Lima Food Tours provides an insider's perspective into the neighborhood's culinary soul - from sampling criollo classics to exploring sprawling outdoor markets overflowing with fresh ingredients.
No trip to La Victoria is complete without joining the crowds at Las Cuartitas for their legendary tacu tacu con lomo saltado. This rich, satisfying dish pairs pan-fried marinated beef with tacu tacu, a traditional mix of rice and beans. Grab a plastic stool at the counter and watch the cooks flawlessly fry up order after order in enormous woks. "It was the best saltado in Lima, so flavorful and the tacu tacu was perfectly crisped," commented one happy customer.
Taking Peruvian-Chinese fusion to new heights is Wa Lok, helmed by acclaimed chef Jacky Lau. Their signature arroz chaufa, a Peruvian spin on fried rice, is a revelation, unexpectedly delectable with its bright mix of shrimp, chicken, pork and egg. Seafood lovers also must try the camarones al ajillo sautéed tiger prawns in garlic. Reviewers agree Wa Lok is a standout, calling it "divine", "a hole in the wall gem" and "easily one of the best meals in Peru."
No discussion of La Victoria is complete without mention of Bolivár Plaza. This bustling park-like square is the thriving heart of the community and bursts with an infectious energy. Vendors hawk fruit juices, snacks, and knickknacks as locals gather to chat and children play. The park perimeter is lined with popular restaurants serving up more tantalizing criollo cuisine.
Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima's Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods - Rimac - Colonial Architecture and Storied Markets
Tucked along the Rímac River, the historic Rimac district transports visitors back through Lima's long history. Wandering the lively colonial streets lined with viceregal mansions and Baroque churches, it's easy to imagine elegant ladies strolling with parasols and gentlemen on horseback. Beyond its storied architecture, Rimac is also beloved for its fascinating traditional markets overflowing with unique finds.
As Lima's original center, Rimac is one of the oldest continually inhabited areas in the Americas. The district is named for the Rímac River, called Rímac or "talker" in the indigenous Quechua language. According to legend, when Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro arrived in 1535 searching for the perfect spot to establish his new capital, the waters of the Rímac spoke to confirm this should be the location.
Today Rimac's colonial legacy lives on through its magnificent historic structures. Plaza de Acho, graced by a pretty 17th-century church, was once the site of a grand viceregal palace and also hosted bullfights during the colonial era. The opulent Palacio de Osambela stands as a stunning example of 18th-century Baroque architecture. And the Monasterio de los Descalzos museum provides a window into 17th-century religious life through its dazzling cloisters, tilework, and art.
Beyond its grand monuments, Rimac invites discovery through charming details like the China Balconies gracing many buildings. Rebecca1899 described wandering past pretty homes with "intricate wrought iron balconies painted in soft greens and pale yellows - unexpected touches of whimsy and charm."
No trip to Rimac would be complete without exploring its bustling traditional markets. The sprawling Mercado Central is an assault on the senses, with endless warrens of stalls overflowing with produce, spices, handicrafts, herbal remedies, and more. Bargain hunters love Mercado de Hermelindas to rifle through everything from electronics to shoes and household goods. And collectors seek out Mercado de Pulgas for its antiquities, memorabilia, and rare finds. As Marcy I shared, "It was a treasure trove of vintage cameras, typewriters, Peru's first telephones - so many unusual things you'd never see back home!"
Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima's Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods - Breña - Gritty, Creative, and Full of Surprises
Tucked between the bustling districts of downtown Lima and bohemian Barranco lies the under-the-radar neighborhood of Breña. Often overlooked by tourists and expats, Breña offers an authentic slice of local life in Lima. Wandering past street food stalls, hole-in-the-wall eateries, and corner shops selling everything from bike parts to religious votives, Breña provides a true immersion into the city’s working-class vitality.
With its lack of upscale amenities and rough-around-the edges ambiance, Breña tends to deter less adventurous travelers. However, those willing to venture beyond the tourist track will be rewarded with a gritty, creative side of Lima that delivers pleasant surprises around every corner. Breña is the perfect neighborhood for urban explorers, street art aficionados, and anyone seeking something more raw and real than the districts tailored to foreigners.
Breña’s labyrinthine central market, Mercado Central de Breña, puts the neighborhood’s resourceful spirit on full display. This sprawling covered complex oozes a lively, chaotic energy, with hundreds of vendors hawking everything from fresh seafood and tropical fruits to herbal remedies, woven textiles, and counterfeit brand-name clothing. Bargain hunters will delight in haggling for goods, though be prepared for the crowded, jostling experience typical of local markets. As Katie W describes, “It’s hot, smelly, dirty and incredibly fun...We found great deals on gifts to bring home. An adventure off the beaten gringo path.”
In addition to everyday shopping, Breña also houses unique cultural and historic sites. Art lovers flock to the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo, displaying works spanning sculpture, photography, painting, and multimedia installations. And history buffs appreciate Breña’s striking colonial architecture, like the baroque San Francisco Church and Monastery dating back to 1546.
Breña is also one of Lima’s best areas to discover street art, described by fan Gabrielle K as "gritty, thought-provoking, and badass." The neighborhood's walls are splashed with colorful murals and graffiti. Top spots to spot urban artwork include the streets around the Metropolitano Station and Parque de la Bandera. Those hoping to understand the works' context and meaning can join a guided Breña street art walking tour.
When hunger strikes, Breña spoils diners with mouthwatering local eateries beloved by locals but virtually unknown to tourists. At Las Cuartitas, expect long lines for their legendary lomo saltado-tacu tacu pairing. Carnivores flock to Pardo’s Chicken for juicy pollo a la brasa roasted chicken. And Sangucheria La Lucha draws crowds with over-the-top loaded sandwiches. As Erik P shared, “An amazing hole-in-the-wall serving monster sandwiches packed with tons of ingredients. So cheap, so tasty, so messy!”
Beyond the Plaza: Discover Lima's Hip, Artsy, and Historic Neighborhoods - Callao - Port City Rich with History and Tradition
With a dramatic coastal location and storied history, the port district of Callao provides a captivating counterpoint to Lima's more genteel neighborhoods. As traveler David M. described, Callao offers “a gritty, flavorful dose of real Peru.”
Settled in 1537, Callao holds the distinction of being the oldest Spanish settlement in Peru as well as its principal port. Strategically situated on the Pacific coast, it became vital for commerce and transport of goods between Peru and Spain. The natural harbor enabled Callao to thrive as a shipping hub handling wares ranging from Peruvian silver and guano to African slaves.
Callao’s legacy as a working port lives on today. While the district has a rough-around-the-edges feel, the bustling waterfront delivers a fascinating immersion into maritime life. Visitors can watch fishermen mending nets, sample seafood at pop-up stalls, and take in the colorful chaos of commercial fishing boats coming and going.
Beyond glimpsing day-to-day port activities, several landmarks provide windows into Callao’s rich history. The Real Felipe Fortress stands guard over the harbor just as it did when completed in 1747. This impressive stone citadel defended against pirates and invading forces during Peru’s fight for independence. Visitors can explore its maze of tunnels and climb to panoramic views atop the ramparts.
Also rewarding is a stop at El Boquerón Market near the fortress. As Jean B. described it, this open air market offers “a real Peruvian experience with all kinds of fruits, veggies, spices, grains, cheese, eggs, meats, chicken, fish - you name it!" Vendors also hawk herbal remedies, handicrafts, clothing and more in a chaotic jumble.
No discussion of Callao is complete without mention of chorrillanas, the district’s beloved local snack. These heart attack-inducing plates heap french fries with sliced beef, chorizo, hot dogs, fried eggs and various toppings. For the quintessential greasy, delicious chorrillana experience, join the crowds at Mi Chorrilana Callao.
Beyond food and maritime life, Callao also provides an intriguing glimpse into Peru's complex past. The district is home to the Monumental Cemetery with elaborate mausoleums of Peru's elite, and the Mold Museum spotlighting the grim realities of Peru's illegal organ trade.